The history of Medan
Medan is situated on the northern coast of Sumatra and is the fourth most populous city in Indonesia, after Jakarta, Bandung and Surabaya. In 2022, it has a population of approximately 2.5 million people residing within the city limits. It was once known as Kampung Medan (Medan Village) when it was a tiny settlement of about 4,000 souls. According to local history, it was established by Guru Patimpus Sebiring Pelawi, a pious man of Muslim faith from the kingdom of Karo, who used to rule the northern region of Sumatra Island. He married a local princess and settled in the swampy area where Medan is now located on July 1, 1590, a date that is still celebrated today as the founding date of the city.
Based on the early documentation of the city, Medan was originally a fortress surrounded by small hamlets. Later, during the 17th century, it became part of the Sultanate of Deli, whose rulers came from South Sumatra and made the city their capital. The Sultans of Deli were among the first Indonesian rulers to ally themselves with the Dutch settlers of the Dutch East India Company. The sultanate still exists today, although political and administrative power is now held by elected mayors. The current sultan, Mahmud Lamanjiji Perkasa Alam, is the 14th in the line of Deli sultans. He resides in Maimoon Palace, one of the most famous buildings in Medan.
During the colonial period, Medan was especially known for its extensive tobacco estates. The climate and the fertile soil were indeed particularly favorable for the cultivation of this plant, which still appears today on the arms and the flag of the city. Initiated at the end of the 19th century, the cultivation of tobacco in Medan greatly contributed to the rapid development of the city. Thanks to the economic boom brought by tobacco, the Sultans of Deli made Medan their capital in 1895. The development of the ports of Sanbang and Belawan, located near Medan, is also attributed to the tobacco industry. These two ports are now major import and export hubs for the island of Sumatra, as well as for the rest of Indonesia.
Nowadays, Medan is surrounded by many smaller satellite towns, such as Binjai, Lumpuk Pakam, Tanjung Morawa, Tembung, Percut Sei Tuan, Deli Serdang and Labuhan Deli, among others. This larger metropolitan area is known as Mebidang, which is a combination of the names of Medang, Binjai and Deli Serdang, the most important urban centers in the region.
The population of Medan
Not only does Medan have a larger Chinese community than Jakarta, it is also home to a large Tamil population. Medan's Tamils and Hindus descend mostly from coolies (indentured laborers) who came to work on the tobacco fields during the Dutch colonial era. This ethnic diversity fuels the city's unique culinary richness, which is unmatched in Indonesia. Be sure to visit the Jalan Semarang area in particular, which has many Chinese restaurants known for their exquisite menus.
Medan is probably one of the most tolerant cities in Indonesia, and even though it is not as huge as Jakarta, it has doubled in size within the last two decades. The city is a very convenient starting point for travel to other parts of Indonesia and Malaysia, especially Penang and Kuala Lumpur. As such, you will be only an hour away from exciting Malaysia and its excellent health care.
Where to live in Medan?
Although Medan may seem an urban stronghold, the city has only a few high-rise buildings and far fewer skyscrapers than in other major Indonesian metropoles. While some portions of the city are more developed than others, one can still see the influence of the Dutch colonial era in Medan, especially through much of the old architecture. Many city dwellers live in four-story houses similar to those found in the Netherlands. Most of the historical buildings are located near each other, near Kesawan, Medan's oldest street, which was once the economic heart of the city.
Expats living in Medan enjoy a finer quality of life compared to other cities in Indonesia. This is due to the fact that the cost of living is generally lower, especially when it comes to residential rentals. However, renting costs vary significantly according to quality, size and location. Be aware that, like everywhere else in Indonesia, it is very difficult for foreigners to own real estate in Medan, even if there are solutions for those who absolutely want to buy a house or an apartment. For this reason, the vast majority of expatriates, if not almost all, have chosen to rent rather than buy a home.
Most of Medan's expatriates live in the residential area of Jalan Taman Setia Budi (Tasbi), where public and gated communities abound. Foreigners are especially fond of the residential complexes situated close to Polonia, the old airport. There are a few high-rise buildings in Medan, but most expatriates tend to choose houses in large condominiums. Expats are particularly attracted to Setia Budi, Bumi Asri and Cemara Asri, Royal Sumatra and Citra Garden. These areas are close to Medan Independent School, which is considered to be one of the best international schools in Medan.
Transportation in Medan
Medan has very limited public transportation. It is therefore advisable for expatriates to purchase their own car or motorcycle. Like in other major cities in Indonesia, traffic in Medan can be chaotic at times, especially during rush hour. However, traffic jams are less acute when compared to cities like Jakarta, for example.
Official Indonesian government statistics show that about 46% of Medan's residents travel by motorcycle, scooter or moped, while 26% use public transport and 16% own a car. The remaining 11% prefer to walk. In fact, many of the city's residents live close to their workplaces. Doing the same can be a smart move if you want to avoid traffic jams and save a lot of time and energy.
With approximately 5 million motorized vehicles registered in the city, Medan's road network is almost reaching saturation point. In order to reduce traffic congestion, the M3 monorail and a new bus network were launched a few years ago, and there are also many private minibuses in Medan.
It is also worth mentioning that Medan is notorious for its power outages, which are more frequent than anywhere else in the country. To be on the safe side, make sure your home has a generator. Otherwise, investing in one may be a good idea.
Climate in Medan
Medan is typically hot and humid. Due to its location in the middle of a coastal jungle swampland, the city has a tropical rainforest climate. The rainfall is therefore frequent and often daily. This is particularly the case during the rainy season, which normally lasts from September to December, with a significant peak in October. The average monthly rainfall recorded during this period varies from 228 to 383 millimeters.
The average annual temperature is 27 degrees Celsius, but it can rise as high as 37 degrees between April and August, while the lowest temperature ever on record is 15.5 degrees.
Medan's typical humidity and heat often cause its inhabitants to deal with widespread mosquito infestations. These insects can be a real pest if you are not adequately equipped to repel them, not to mention that they can also transmit malaria or chikungunya, among others. Take care, and consider investing in mosquito sprays, insecticide diffusers and other devices to protect yourself during the hottest and most humid days. Always wear long sleeves and pants after dark, when mosquitoes are usually more active.
Finding accommodation in Medan
Seasoned expatriates already living in Medan can help you during your search for accommodation there. The city boasts several residential areas popular with expats, such as Setia Budi, Bumi Asri and Cemara Asri. The majority of expats in Medan reside in the Taman Setia Budi area or in one of the apartment complexes located around the old Polonia airport.
There are various types of accommodation available in the different areas of Medan, but most of them are apartments, some of which are fully equipped. Medan also features a few houses, although not as many. Rent is more expensive in and around the city center than in the suburbs. For example, a one-bedroom apartment in the city center will cost IDR 1,640,000 per month and IDR 1,030,000 in the suburbs. If you opt for a three-bedroom apartment, your rent is likely to be IDR 6 million per month in the city center and IDR 3,250,000 in the suburbs.
Because of Medan's cultural diversity, the neighborhoods can be attired in various finery while bringing together diverse communities from all over Asia. As mentioned earlier, Medan hosts a large Chinese community and is home to many Hindus of Tamil faith, as well as to the indigenous Batak people.
If you want to meet other foreigners over a drink, go to Club Medan, a popular spot for foreigners living in the city.
The city comes alive after sunset, and Medan has no shortage of options when it comes to wine bars, taverns, and exclusive hotels. For expats, the most notable establishments are The Traders and O'Flaherty's Bar and Restaurant, which is especially busy on Friday nights, and The Entrance Music Temple, a trendy nightclub located within the Grand Aston Hotel.
Finally, log on to Medan real estate websites or contact a local real estate agent to find a home that meets your needs and budget.
Leisure in Medan
Medan's history has turned the city into an important cultural and historical center in Sumatra and Indonesia. The Maimum Palace, the residence of the Sultans of Deli, is a popular destination for tourists visiting the city. Since access is allowed, it is a must-see during Medan sightseeing tours. The gardens are beautiful, and the building itself is quite impressive.
Be sure to visit the Maha Vihara Maitreya, a Buddhist temple located not far from downtown Medan, or the Taman Ahmad Yani Medan, which is probably the most beautiful park in the city. The latter features many games for children (slides, climbing walls). The park also houses an imposing statue of Ahmad Yani, a general of the Indonesian army, considered a national hero in the country.
Shopaholics and families with children often visit the Ramayana Teladan Medan, a shopping mall with many stores, arcades and entertainment facilities. Otherwise, there is also the Sun Plaza, the Medan Mall and the Centre Point Mall, among others. If you are fond of local flavors and colors, be sure to stop by Pasar Rame, and indulge in delicious local specialties. Note that the wait can be long! The Medan Night Market and Night Street Food Court come to life at night and also offer delicious traditional dishes. There are also popular restaurants serving foreign cuisine in Medan, such as Korean Street Food or Zac Pizza, which probably serves the best pizza in town.
If you're looking for a nightclub to let off steam, Medan Club, Restrospective Entertainment Club and Heaven Hell H2 are some of the most famous nightspots. There are also many other bars and nightclubs, most of them located in the city center or in the surrounding area.
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