Note: The attack described in this post began at approximately 12:30 a.m. on Thursday, December 8, 2016, on the Panamericana highway, less than 33 km (19 miles) south of Popayán.
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The drive from the border town of Tulcán, Ecuador, to Popayán, Colombia, is supposed to take less than 6-and-a-half hours, based on the research I did online before the trip. Checking out of my hotel in Tulcán at noon, I figured that between 9 and 10 p.m. that evening i would arrive in Popayán -- known as La Ciudad Blanca (the White City) and the religious capital of Colombia.
The first delay came right away, as I was blocked in by another car in the hotel's tiny parking lot.
That cost me an hour, as the hotel had difficulty finding the owner of the offending vehicle. I had a restaurant lunch while the parking problem was being resolved.
I was glad I had gone to the border the day before to take care of the paperwork for entering Colombia and buy the required car insurance. That took about two hours.
After crossing into Colombia on my travel day heading towards Popayán, I experienced weather delays. There were steady rains in southern Colombia almost throughout my travel day. The combination of the weather, the mostly two-lane roads and the many slow-moving trucks on inclines had me still hours from my destination when I stopped for a meal at 9:30 p.m.
Back on the road at 10, I was stuck behind a truck doing about 20 kph (about 12 miles an hour) for about 90 minutes. I didn't want to pass the truck because my windshield was fogging up and the truck was essentially lighting the way for me.
It was a boring yet difficult drive through heavy rain on wet, unlit roads.
Suddenly the attack occurred.
Every 15 or 20 seconds there was a thump in my car as stones, one at a time, crashed against the rear end and rear windshield.
On the third thump, I noticed that there was a new hole about six inches in diameter in my rear windshield. It was clearly visible via my rear-view mirror -- illuminated by the headlight of a motorcycle that was now tailgating me.
I was under attack by two maniacs on a ‘moto'....