I recently (2010) returned to my home in Chengdu after spending 4 days in Xi'an, February 7th to the 11th. I had read many Trip Advisor tips about what to do and and see and what to avoid. I was pleasantly surprised with my visit to this ancient Chinese capital in Shaanxi. My target of course was the Terracotta Warriors and Mr Qin Shi Huang. I had been anticipating this trip for 4 years. I wasn't disappointed. I now understand that this historic site is a recent discovery and an a work in progress as the relics are continuously being uncovered at the warriors site and at Qin Shi Huang's mausoleum. The thousands of clay soldiers and horses have long lost their color but there are a few preserved figures that you can still see. I actually bought a souvenir book 110yuan and had the man that found the warriors in 1974 sign the book ( well my Chinese girlfriend said he was the real one, not a fake). TIC- This is China!
Hotel and getting to Qin Shi Huang:
About getting there, I had read in Trip Advisor that you can just take the bus 306 directly from the train station with no stop to the Terracotta Warriors site. I was going to do that, but my shuttle bus from the airport stopped in front of the Melody Hotel. A tour guide approached me and my Chinese girlfriend and offered us a deal (180 yuan/person including pick-up at your hotel, 9am and back about 4-5pm, ticket to the Terracotta Warriors and lunch there. It stops at 1 shop on the way and 1 shop returning. I usually prefer the more direct route but this turned into a blessing in disguise. The guide offered us a 4 star hotel 488 yuan , private room, king bed,for only 218 if I booked the 180 ticket. This was a no brainer as my 3 star room was already over 200. So, we stayed at a 4 star hotel, 10 minutes walk to the Bell and Drum Tower(city center ,inside the walls.
The Xi'an city wall was maybe as impressive as the Terracotta Warriors. The wall surrounds the ancient city and is much wider (43 feet per my size 44 or 4 cars wide) versus the Great Wall in Beijing (13 feet at a popular spot, or 2 cars wide) We lucked up as February 9 was the opening of all the Chinese New Year lights being turned (5 days before the 14th, New Year, and running a total of 35 days). Night time was awesome as I thought it was Christmas and New Year all in one! There is a nightly show ( I think) it was on the 9th and it si well worth staying unteil 7pm or dark walking around the wall looking at the above city below you. We were told that the show and most of the lights are only done at the South (nan) Gate. So my advice is stay inside the walls no more than 15 minute Walk ( not taxi) from the center.
Other sights:
The Muslim walking street with food and gifts is only a few minutes from the Drum and Bell Towers.
The Drum and Bell Towers are worth a visit. If it is cold (it was zero C or 32F), there are 2 Starbucks nearby with many Chinese tea houses to get warm
Big and Small Goose pagodas are worth a short visit if you enjoy Buddha temples.
Would I go again? You bet, I will go next tear 2011 during by break from teaching.
I can now chalk up visiting Shanghai, Beijing, Shenyang, Hangzhou, Suzhou, Nanjing, Guilin, Guangzhou, Nanning, Wuhan, Changsha and Xi'an. Next? Lhasa in Tibet and Mt Everest or Qomolangma.
John
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