Living in Antananarivo: the ultimate expat guide

Antananarivo concentrates most of Madagascar's formal employment opportunities, though the labor market presents distinct challenges. The economy remains heavily agricultural, with 69% of the population engaged in farming, fishing, and forestry, while the industrial sector employs only 10% of workers. Productivity levels rank among the world's lowest, with workers in Madagascar approximately three times less productive than the average Sub-Saharan African worker.

Key Employment Sectors

The city's economy centers around several growing industries. Textiles and garment manufacturing remain significant employers, with Export Processing Zones around Antananarivo producing apparel for international markets under favorable trade agreements. The mining sector is expanding with major projects in nickel, cobalt, graphite, and gemstones attracting international investment. Tourism and hospitality continue developing as Madagascar's unique biodiversity draws increasing visitors. The telecommunications and IT sectors are experiencing rapid growth, while international development organizations, NGOs, and diplomatic missions employ numerous expatriates.

Work Permits and Employment Conditions

Foreign workers must secure work permits and valid employment contracts before beginning employment in Antananarivo. The standard workweek is 40 hours, with employees entitled to 30 days of paid annual leave. The minimum monthly wage stands at approximately $58 for non-agricultural workers, though expatriate salaries typically range much higher depending on sector and experience. Personal income tax follows a progressive structure from 0% to 20%, while corporate tax rates sit at 20%. Many expatriates work through international organizations or use Employer of Record services to navigate Madagascar's employment regulations.

Below is a snapshot of key employment indicators for Antananarivo:

Sources: World Bank Madagascar, Moody's Analytics Madagascar

Antananarivo serves as Madagascar's primary center for higher education, hosting the country's most prestigious institutions. While the university system faces resource constraints typical of developing nations, it provides accessible tertiary education to Malagasy students and limited opportunities for international students seeking unique African academic experiences.

University of Antananarivo

The University of Antananarivo, founded in 1955 as the Institute for Higher Studies, stands as Madagascar's flagship public institution. Renamed in 1961, it occupies a 35-hectare campus in the Ankatso district and serves over 40,000 students across six faculties. The university offers comprehensive programs in sciences, humanities, law, economics, medicine, and engineering. Instruction occurs primarily in French and Malagasy, with limited English-language programs. The institution is recognized by the Ministry of Higher Education and Scientific Research and maintains research institutes focusing on Madagascar's unique ecosystems and development challenges.

Other Higher Education Institutions

Several private and specialized institutions complement the public university system. The Higher Polytechnic Institute of Madagascar, established in 1993, focuses on technical education in electronics, information systems, and engineering. The Institut National de Santé Publique et Communautaire, created in 1994, specializes in public health training for medical graduates. Private business schools like ESCAME, founded in 1997, prepare students for business leadership and entrepreneurship.

Admission and Costs

International students must demonstrate French language proficiency, as most programs use French as the primary language of instruction. Admission typically requires a baccalaureate or equivalent qualification, with competitive entrance examinations for certain programs. Tuition fees at public universities remain minimal compared to international standards, though private institutions charge higher rates. Foreign students should budget for living expenses, which are significantly lower than in Western countries. Prospective students can contact the university directly through its official channels for specific program information and admission requirements.

For more information, visit: University of Antananarivo

Families relocating to Antananarivo have access to several international schools offering curricula in English and French, though options remain more limited than in larger African capitals. The quality of education at international institutions generally meets Western standards, making them the preferred choice for expatriate families.

American School of Antananarivo

The American School of Antananarivo (ASA), founded in 1969, stands as the premier English-language international school in Madagascar. Located in the Le Park compound in Alarobia, approximately 4.6 kilometers from the city center, ASA serves around 260 students aged 3 to 18 from over 30 nationalities. The school offers the International Baccalaureate Primary Years Programme (PYP) and Diploma Programme (DP) and is accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools. Graduates receive a U.S. High School Diploma and successfully transition to competitive universities worldwide. The academic year runs from mid-August through early June. Annual tuition varies by grade level, and families should contact the school directly for current fee schedules.

Other International and Bilingual Schools

The Lycée français de Tananarive provides education from pre-kindergarten through high school following the French national curriculum, with multilingual instruction in French and English. Annual tuition ranges from approximately $1,100 to $4,400 depending on grade level. The International School of Madagascar offers another English-language option for pre-kindergarten through high school students. The British School of Madagascar follows the English National Curriculum for pupils seeking a British-style education. Several smaller bilingual schools cater to different educational philosophies and budgets.

Enrollment Process

International schools typically require advance registration, academic records, immunization certificates, and passport copies. Some schools conduct entrance assessments to determine appropriate grade placement. Most schools fill quickly, so families should begin the application process several months before relocation. School fees represent a significant expense for expatriate families, often constituting the largest single budget item, though these costs remain substantially lower than comparable institutions in Europe or North America.

Contact information: American School of Antananarivo

Antananarivo's housing market offers diverse options for expatriates, from modern villas in gated compounds to furnished apartments in central neighborhoods. Rental costs remain remarkably affordable by international standards, though accommodation quality varies significantly. Most expatriates rent rather than purchase property, as foreign land ownership faces legal restrictions in Madagascar.

Expatriate-Friendly Neighborhoods

Ivandry establishes itself as the city's most prestigious residential area, favored for spacious villas, modern amenities, and relative tranquility. The neighborhood attracts diplomats and senior expatriate professionals willing to pay premium rents for security and comfort. Alarobia appeals particularly to families due to its proximity to the American School of Antananarivo and peaceful atmosphere, with numerous expat-friendly villas available. Ambatobe offers convenient access to international schools and commercial amenities, featuring both modern residences and established family homes. Downtown areas like Antsahavola suit professionals requiring direct access to offices, embassies, and administrative services, despite traffic congestion challenges.

Rental Costs and Property Types

Housing costs in Antananarivo vary considerably based on location, size, and amenities. A one-bedroom apartment in a shared house typically costs between $120 to $150 monthly, while a one-bedroom apartment in the city center ranges from $250 to $350. Two-bedroom apartments command $300 to $550 per month. Larger family homes with three or more bedrooms range from $600 to $900 monthly, with luxury villas in compounds like Le Park exceeding $1,000. Most rental properties come furnished, though standards vary. Essential considerations include backup generator availability, as power cuts remain frequent, and secure parking, as vehicle security is important.

Rental Process and Utilities

Rental agreements typically require security deposits equivalent to two to three months' rent plus advance payment. Landlords often prefer long-term contracts of one year or more. Monthly utilities for an 85-square-meter apartment average around $50 for water, electricity, and basic services, though frequent power outages necessitate generator backup. High-speed internet costs approximately $80 monthly, essential for remote workers and expatriate families maintaining international connections. When searching for accommodation, prioritize neighborhoods with stable power supply and consider proximity to schools, workplaces, and secure shopping areas.

Antananarivo offers a surprising variety of cultural, historical, and recreational activities despite infrastructure limitations. The city blends traditional Malagasy heritage with colonial influences, providing expatriates with museums, markets, parks, and entertainment venues that reflect Madagascar's unique character.

Museums and Historical Sites

The Rova (Queen's Palace) stands as Antananarivo's most iconic landmark, perched atop the city's highest hill. Though damaged by fire in 1995, the palace complex remains a powerful symbol of Merina royalty and offers breathtaking city views. The Madagascar Photography Museum showcases the island's history through remarkable photographic collections spanning pre-colonial times to independence, with exhibitions presented in three languages. The Andafiavaratra Palace, formerly the Prime Minister's residence, now houses the Madagascar History Museum with precious artifacts illustrating the nation's development. The Museum of Art and Archaeology, operated by the University of Antananarivo, displays traditional crafts, musical instruments, and archaeological findings unique to Madagascar.

Parks, Markets, and Outdoor Activities

Lemurs' Park, located approximately 22 kilometers from the city center, provides close encounters with six to seven lemur species in a protected natural environment, perfect for families and wildlife enthusiasts. Tsimbazaza Zoo combines botanical gardens with a small zoo featuring native Malagasy fauna including lemurs, crocodiles, and endemic birds. Lake Anosy, an artificial lake in the city center, offers peaceful walking paths and photo opportunities. The vibrant Analakely Market immerses visitors in local life with colorful stalls selling textiles, handicrafts, spices, and fresh produce, though vigilance against pickpockets remains essential. Digue Market specializes in handicrafts, wood carvings, and unique jewelry reflecting Madagascar's artisanal traditions.

Entertainment and Nightlife

The Isoraka neighborhood concentrates Antananarivo's nightlife with bars, restaurants, and nightclubs popular among expatriates and young Malagasy professionals. Venues offer live music featuring traditional Malagasy styles and contemporary sounds. Is'Art Galerie serves as a cultural hub promoting Malagasy artists through exhibitions, concerts, and performances while functioning as a cafe. International restaurants serving French, Italian, Chinese, and Indian cuisine cater to diverse palates, alongside local eateries offering authentic Malagasy dishes like romazava (zebu stew) and ravitoto (cassava leaves). The city hosts occasional cultural festivals celebrating traditional dance, music, and crafts, providing windows into Madagascar's rich cultural heritage.

Living in Antananarivo requires adaptation to infrastructure challenges while embracing the city's unique character and slower pace of life. Daily routines differ significantly from Western cities, with frequent power cuts, traffic congestion, and varying service quality shaping the expatriate experience.

Transportation and Getting Around

Antananarivo's transportation system presents both affordability and challenges. Public transport includes overcrowded taxi-brousse minibuses costing around $0.25 per trip and cyclo-pousse rickshaws ranging from $0.15 to $0.75 depending on distance. However, most expatriates rely on private vehicles or hired drivers due to safety concerns and comfort considerations. Traffic congestion reaches severe levels during peak hours, with commutes frequently extending to several hours. Road conditions deteriorate significantly outside the city center, with less than 15% of Madagascar's roads paved. An International Driving Permit is required for driving, and maintaining vigilance while on the road is essential. Monthly transportation costs for expatriates typically range from $20 to $50 when using mixed transport options, significantly more when maintaining a private vehicle.

Infrastructure and Daily Challenges

Power outages, locally known as délestage, occur regularly and sometimes last several hours, making backup generators or alternative power sources essential for expatriate households. Water supply can be intermittent in some neighborhoods, and running water availability varies by location. Internet connectivity exists but speeds and reliability fluctuate, with high-speed connections requiring dedicated service contracts. Mobile phone coverage through local providers offers reasonable 4G service in urban areas. Security consciousness remains important, particularly avoiding walking alone at night in certain areas and keeping valuables out of sight. Despite these challenges, expatriates who embrace the local lifestyle and maintain realistic expectations often find daily life manageable and rewarding.

Shopping and Lifestyle

Antananarivo offers diverse shopping options from traditional markets to modern supermarkets. The bustling Analakely Market provides fresh produce, spices, and local goods at excellent prices, though pickpocketing requires vigilance. Modern shopping centers and imported goods stores cater to expatriate preferences, albeit at higher prices. Local cuisine centers around rice, zebu meat, cassava, and fresh tropical fruits available affordably at markets. International restaurants, cafes, and bars concentrate in neighborhoods like Isoraka, known for vibrant nightlife popular among locals and expatriates. The city's moderate highland climate features hot, wet summers from September to April with temperatures reaching 22°C, and cool, dry winters from May to August with temperatures dropping to 14°C.

Antananarivo ranks among the world's most affordable cities for expatriates, with living costs approximately 66% lower than the United States and 64% lower than Berlin. This exceptional affordability allows expatriates to maintain comfortable lifestyles on modest budgets, though imported goods and Western-style services command premium prices.

Monthly Budget for a Single Person

A single expatriate can live comfortably in Antananarivo on a well-managed budget. The table below presents realistic monthly expenses based on moderate consumption and expatriate lifestyle preferences:

Sources: Numbeo Antananarivo, September 2025

Monthly Budget for a Family of Four

Families with two school-age children require larger budgets primarily due to international school fees, which represent the single largest expense. Below is a realistic family budget estimate:

Sources: Numbeo Antananarivo, American School of Antananarivo, 2025

Additional Considerations

While basic living costs remain low, expatriates maintaining Western lifestyles with imported goods, regular restaurant dining, and international travel will spend significantly more. Healthcare requires mandatory international insurance, as local facilities lack adequate resources for serious medical needs. Banking services remain underdeveloped, with only 18% banking penetration, making cash transactions common. Overall, Antananarivo offers excellent value for money compared to most international destinations, though successful expatriation requires accepting local limitations and occasional inconveniences.