Rambling thoughts after 6 months away from Rio

GuestPoster376Guest14 January 2024 13:54:06

This might be a bit of a long post, so, I’ll try to organize it as best as I can. Been away from Brasil for 6 months, and just came back Friday from a 6 week trip there getting prepped for the final move in August. Thought it might be interesting to document the things I noticed while I was away…….

INFLATION

Well, it’s not like it was 20 years ago, but, it’s still not bad either. I have 4 supermarkets and a weekly street fair within 3 blocks of my apartment in Copacabana, so, I just hit each one of them and grab what ever I need where it is the cheapest. You gotta do a bit of footwork, but, it’s not out of control. Monthly groceries for two in Rio are about $250 CAD, versus $800 back in Canada.

………….waiting for the first Brasilian national to come here and post “but you earn in dollars Gringo”……….heh

For example, Copa is the south zone tourist area…….yet within a block’s walk you can find prices of a 300-330 ml caneca of cold chopp ranging from between R$6 to R$15 so, you have to look around……….great PF’s are still <R$20……….the new trend is “comida sem balanca”……….a buffet self service restaurant without a scale, and a fixed price……..for example, a plate piled high and your choice of one meat is R$15-17 and two pieces is $19……..

I spent a week in Cabo Frio and it was cheaper there, and I also spent 2 weeks in Petropolis/Itaipava where it was even less expensive (Itaipava excepted, of course).

Clothing is hit and miss. Many places are overpriced now, yet some are very cheap. You gotta walk, a lot.

Gas and vehicles are getting up there approaching Canadian levels, but, depending where you live, you don’t need a car. I don’t know why we still have one parked in our garage. UBER is still dirt cheap.

STYLE

Pineapple heads are everywhere. The latest trend in hair fashion from the “communidades” since Ronaldo Fenomeno did his triangle back in the 2002 World Cup is the “Cabeca Abacaxi” hair dye and cut. Not for me, but kudos to those who can pull it off I guess.

Plastic surgery stores in shopping malls are the new thing too. A “Turbo Bum Bum” (yes, that is what the advertising in the window called it) can be had for R$2,500…..a liqui preco from R$6,000………………..plastic popazudas and botox lips are everywhere, looks horrible IMHO as it is mainly on the 60+ crowd in Barra de Tijuca. Kinda like old men in skinny jeans, right ?

Victor Hugo is out of business…..the Brasilian LV copycat has finally died and Lojas Americanas is on life suport. H Stern is still around, god only knows why. Taco is a ripoff now………yet, the malls are full.

I still buy most of my stuff from camelos on the street.

BUSINESS ECONOMY

Last trip in June Rio Sul Mall in Botafogo had 24 empty storefronts. This trip it had only 7……….maybe the pension fund or whoever owns it finally came out of the ether and lowered the rents, or, things are improving a lot.

One thing I love is the almost TOTAL LACK OF G7/EU franchised chain stores. Lots of one off and smaller businesses exist.

It’s Tuesday night at 730 PM and the restaurants and bars are bumping blocks off the beach where tourists don’t go. A full house in 75% of them, with lines being the norm. Hhhmmmmmmmm.

The apparent effects of covid on the economy didn’t seem to change the visual on the streets as most of the previously vacant stores are still empty, but everyone else is busy.

We priced out everything we need to equip our next apartment and it came to about 1/5 of what it costs up here in Canada. Still cheap by Brasilian standards too.

REAL ESTATE

There is a massive bubble bursting in Rio de Janeiro right now IMHO. Over speculation on rental properties in newer areas (especially using consorcios) and the larger expensive inheritances needing total renovation are clogging up established areas, which will bring about a correction.

It is still cheap though.

The trick is to buy from a corretor as they seem to have the lowest listing prices, versus private vendors. Was listening to a 60+ woman bitching to her friend about being unable to sell her apartment in Copacabana while eating at a comida a kilo. She was frustrated by the perceived lowball offers, and people pointing out all the cheap competition to her.

We decided not to buy a beach front place after living in Cabo Frio for a week, as we’ll only go there occasionally, and it’s better to stay in a pousada. Gonna sell our place in Itaipava (too many Expat5000 types live there KKKKKKKKK and it’s simply hard to park between a bunch of blindado Range Rovers on the street) keep the flat in Copacabana, and buy another apartment in the downtown historic center of Petropolis instead. It’s half the price of Copacabana/Barra or less.

CRIME AND SAFETY

There is nothing to see here. No issues for me personally. Didn't go to the breach in Copa for reveillon because I didn't want to stand in line for an hour to clear security.

See also

Accommodation in Rio de Janeiro - Guide
Thoughts on Banks and a Update for my situation... - 17 Replies
Musings from my Rio visit - 12 Replies
6 months is 6 month out? - 4 Replies
Thoughts on UBER (Brazil) - 40 Replies
Student visa (6 months) to learn Portuguese in Rio - 6 Replies
Earth cycles (Wisconsin, thoughts from Brazil) - 2 Replies

easygoer1050 Active member

Member since 28 November 2023

easygoer1050Active member14 January 2024 15:26:41

Nice informative post..thanks

chefjim Active member

Member since 23 March 2020

chefjimActive member14 January 2024 16:06:49

Oi Gasparzinho,

Thanks for a great post! But, I'd have added another item to laud about Brasil....its people!

Maybe it's me....grey-hair, over 80....but I remember one of my earliest flights from GRU to POA. My flight was a little late, and I had to make a quick connection to Gol....only to find several hundred folks in line before me! Almost immediately a clerk from the front counter left his post and came up to me to tell me to follow him to the "Prioridade" line, thus by-passing the waiting crowd! Wow!

During my first trip on the Metro in SP, I entered a crowded car, and stood holding a near-by bar. A few seconds later, I felt a hand on my shoulder, and found a young man offering me his seat! Again...WOW!

Over the next few years, I found that this happening to me over and over....in both large cities as well as the smaller towns. The kindness of people I have found in Brasil is something that has no price!

KenAquarius Serial expat

Member since 24 August 2017

KenAquariusSerial expat14 January 2024 22:13:57

388

@chefjim All in all the Brazilian people are wonderful. There are some things that are difficult to understand, but that’s true anywhere you go

Pablo888 Serial expat

Member since 12 May 2023

Pablo888Serial expat15 January 2024 01:20:43

867

@gasparzinho777, welcome back to Rio. In your absence, I was able to get my e-visa and have finalized my Carnival week hotel, Sambadrome, Cristo Redeemer and a few private parties.

Any recommendations on what to do for a Carnival first-timer from the Carioca expert?

sprealestatebroker ViP

Member since 01 May 2018

sprealestatebrokerViP15 January 2024 16:08:53

1288

If Rio is your cup of tea, the news about the VLT ( City Wide Trams ), is encouraging., I would kick around Rio Historic Downtown.

Remember, trash now, gold latter.

The area is close to the old trading port, is is a hidden gem.

GuestPoster376 Guest

GuestPoster376Guest17 January 2024 20:27:16

@gasparzinho777, welcome back to Rio. In your absence, I was able to get my e-visa and have finalized my Carnival week hotel, Sambadrome, Cristo Redeemer and a few private parties.Any recommendations on what to do for a Carnival first-timer from the Carioca expert? -@Pablo888

Good news on the visa !!!

What hotel are you staying at ?

I don't have any reco's from first hand experience at Carnival as I avoid it for all the usual reasons, so, I asked my Carioca wife who went once........

Go and participate in some "blocos"..........

Go to the "sambodromo" and get tickets for a "camarote" (a private catered box) instead of "arquibencada" seating (the bleachers). Go on the last day of the parade event, which is Sunday, as that is when you see the best schools (Mangueira, Portela, Tijuca, Salguiero for example) and stay all night until 500 AM. You will be be exhausted afterwards from the noise level and your body will ache everywhere because the vibrations of the drums in the "batteria" will soon take over and make you start dancing for hours. You cannot control yourself if the school has a good musical score.

Stay away from partying at the beach/tourist areas as that is were everything is pricier........

As to Rio in general, I'd pass on "Christo Redentor".........and go up the two cable cars to the top of "Pao de Acucar" in Urca at sunset instead. You will be blown away by the visual of the sun going down behind the morros of Rio.

GuestPoster376 Guest

GuestPoster376Guest17 January 2024 20:29:30

If Rio is your cup of tea, the news about the VLT ( City Wide Trams ), is encouraging., I would kick around Rio Historic Downtown.
Remember, trash now, gold latter.

The area is close to the old trading port, is is a hidden gem.

-@sprealestatebroker

That's down by the docs around the Museum of Tomorrow, etc ?

Pablo888 Serial expat

Member since 12 May 2023

Pablo888Serial expat17 January 2024 22:54:04

867

@Gasparzinho 777, I will be staying at the Miramar in Copa - your neck of the woods.... Any good coffee shops / bakeries / landmarks that you would recommend that I drop by?

Re: Sambadrome - yes - on Sunday and I currently have bleacher seats and I am looking for camarote seats. When I booked the tickets the prices were not yet available. They should be now.

Re: Pao de Acucar at sunset - yes great idea.

I definitely will try the block parties - but I suspect that after I have seen one, I will have seen all of them. Hope to go to see the big monuments - Art Museum, Escadaria Selarón, Arcos da Lapa - which will probably put me in Lapa too...

Thank you for the pointers.... Much appreciated.

GuestPoster376 Guest

GuestPoster376Guest18 January 2024 21:06:18

#10

Hey Pablo......

Confeitaria Columbo

Rua Gonçalves Dias, 32

Centro

https://confeitariacolombo.com.br/#lojas

A 125 year old two story architectural masterpiece, located downtown, with an ambience second to none. Coffee, sweets and lunches. A must see in Rio.........we go often for lunch if we plan to be downtown.

The Bakers

Rua Santa Clara, 86

Copacabana

A local family run business with sit down service for coffee and all kinds of sweets. I've been going there for 20 years. Excellent baked goods all made in house !!!

Cafeina

Rua Barata Ribeiro, 507

Copacabana

A locally owned place with about 4-5 locations in Copa. Excellent for coffee or sweets, and lunches. Been going there 20 years as well. Very relaxed atmosphere, and great snacks.

Crums Confeitaria

Rua Leopoldo Miguez, 110

Copacabana

A newish place we discovered last month. Awesome brunch for 2 people with everything you can imagine @ R$120........$35 CAD. Great sweets. Very relaxed vibe.

The fort at Posto 6 is an interesting place to go and do a tour. There is also a really cool outdoor cafe on the sea wall terrace against the north side of the fort, with a spectacular view of Copacabana. A must for picture taking and lunch.

GuestPoster376 Guest

GuestPoster376Guest18 January 2024 21:18:11

#11

One more......not a coffee shop, but a botequim.

Botequim Belmonte

Rua Domingos Ferreira, 242

It's been there for decades, and so have I.......heh. The classical Carioca open bar/restaurant a block from the beach on a street corner full of other interesting places to eat. After 7-8 PM there will always be a line, and the place is bumping. If you go for lunch, usually seating is immediate.