Expat loneliness - Does it get any better?
The rains have started here in Portugal. It's funny, when I first moved here two years ago, all I kept reading about was how good the weather was and how much the sun shines here. Once the rains start it just gets damp, humid and grey and it rains for days at a time. Most apartments don't have central heating or very good insulation, so it is always cold. Last year my clothes got mouldy in the closet from the damp humidity. I am dreading the upcoming winter and I have a strong urge to run away to somewhere warm, where my bones don't feel cold.
I was only going to give Portugal a year, that was the plan. After 4 months of being here I fell in love and I have now been here two years. My boyfriend is Portuguese, and owns a bar, Patio do Sol, in the suburbs, about a 20 minute drive from Lisbon. I hadn't been in a real relationship for almost 6 years so I fell fast and hard in love. I have always had a positive and sunny disposition and outlook on life, and always been strong, and fiercely independent. When you move to another country and don't speak the language several things happen. First, you feel loneliness, even when you are surrounded by other people. Take last weekend, for example. My boyfriend and I attended his niece's birthday party. Everyone spoke Portuguese, of course. There were a couple of people there that knew me and spoke English to me directly, but when trying to be a part of a group, or be involved in a discussion, that is where it ends...so I laughed when other people laughed, even though I didn't get the joke, which made me feel a bit stupid and out of place. Then, you can't express your personality, your wit, your intelligence, and sometimes people just look at you in a kind of pitiful way, which makes you feel worse. It's also a hit on your confidence of sorts when you cannot express yourself completely and deeply.
I don't have my gaggle of different girlfriends or family here that I can just go get together with when I need support or just to talk. I have always been able to make friends easily because I am open hearted, open minded and honest, and pretty cool and funny I might add. Despite this, I have had a hell of a time connecting with Portuguese women. Most of the women I have met are warm hearted and nice enough, but perhaps because of the language barrier we just don't seem to get further than the usual..."Hey, nice to meet you, would love to hang out sometime" kind of thing. In two years there is just one woman, the girlfriend of one of my boyfriend's best friends, that I have spent any "girl" time with, apart from my American colleague who has become kind of a little sister to me, and who is leaving to go back to the US next month, leaving me in somewhat of a panic.
I cannot remember the last time I actually met someone here that inspired me, or made me think..."Wow, what a cool and interesting person, I hope I get to hang out with them again." And all this has been getting me down, in a big way.
Don't get me wrong. I have had some unbelieveably great moments here, and my boyfriend has been trying very hard to make me feel comfortable and at home. In fact, sometimes I feel I am not being fair to him because he tries so hard and I am somewhat dismissive, almost as if he is to blame for my unhappiness, when in truth I can see myself growing old with this man. And yet, for some reason I feel confined, suffocated, like all this is too small, and I feel claustrophobic, depressed, sad, insulated and lonely.
I have been nomadic all my life and have never stayed in one place too long, but I have always very quickly adapted and made the best of the place I happen to be. Here I find myself feeling split in two, with one foot seemingly in the place I spent most of the last half of my life, San Francisco, and one foot here in Portugal, this foreign place where I still haven't grasped the language and can't seem to find food I love. Torn between two worlds, feeling like I am living in some strange "limbo land". I hanker for "home" but the longer I am away, the more that is all a memory, so "home" in that sense has become something that it isn't.
As I try to assimilate into this life and this culture, there is so much I miss from my former life, apart from the obvious family and friends. I miss Sunday brunches, eggs benedict and mimosas in the Mission. I miss the varying Asian cultures and all that comes with them, from the Vietnamese nail salon ladies, Pho, Dim Sum, Korean BBQ, Chinese take-out, exotic sushi that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, to Pad Ped Pladuck, my own Indian culture, hipsters, innovation, a "can-do" attitiude, thinking outside the box, progessiveness, going out to the ball park, Halloween, hippies, dressing up in costume just for the hell of it, nerds and geeks, hip hop and hyphy, Mexican taco trucks, a good cosmo or bloody mary, creative salads, avocados and asparagus, silent disco parties on the beach, good customer service, polite waiters, Thanksgiving...I could go on and on. And yet, here I am, halfway across the world from all that I miss, trying to assimilate to a new culture that doesn't feel half as evolved, and yet with an older and more richer history than the comparative adolescent that is America.
I think I've got cojones, simply for changing careers at 40, leaving at the top of one career to go work with kids 20 years younger than me in a completely different industry, starting near the beginning...a humbling experience in itself, to a country where I knew nobody, didn't speak the language, just took a risk and jumped in, just to shake things up a bit, only to prove that just because you are in your 40's, that shouldn't stop you from starting again, from staying away from the norm, from taking risks, not being afraid of change, getting out of that comfort zone and feeling out of it, every day. Maybe this loneliness is just temporary, and maybe I need to go through this as a process, in order to learn something, or grow some more. Whatever it is, I am not giving up, and despite Portugal and all the differences, the sometimes negative, fear-based, non-inventive attitude of it's citizens, I am not going to let it change me. Some people go their whole lives staying with what feels comfortable. Not me. Bring it on.
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I am a Portuguese that moved from Lisbon to Minneapolis, to Aberdeen, to Lisbon, to Singapore, to Cascais, to Guangzhou and to Cascais again.
As a nomad I feel the thrill and sometimes the loneliness....but the experiences we get in life by being on the move are amazing...not to mention what our heart has to share...
It would be awesome to meet you and your partner... to explore memories...
Memories from parochial minds in Portugal to multiethnic immersion in US or Singapore societies and cultures, from Portuguese wives to Indian and Chinese loves ...
I am always prepared to take stock and create a future.. here or wherever.... leaving my paradise just in front of one of the Cascais beaches.
Take care
Joao
No, it won't get better. Though, I'm Portuguese (w/foreingn blood) I don't appreciate the Portuguese mentality, so to speak...
When I was much younger, I had the chance of staying abroad (Germany/Sweden) but, I hadn't finished my college degree. Love may be a many splendor thing! However it may fade in time. Then what?
If one already has a business career plus, good "breeding", one becomes invisible/a stranger in a foreign country (worst when you don't know the language: a "mute"). Portuguese jokes are completly different from American/English ones., etc. , etc.
As a child I lived 7 years in the States. When I came back to my "home town", it felt like travelling in time: dark ages.....
M.
I'm not a foreigner but I feel the same. One should "check " the would be husbands' backgrounds before the "plunge"... Portuguese can seem or even be very helpful in many occasions but they're extremely envious people,to say the least. They're always checking on you...what you do/where you go, etc., etc They'll easily bad-mouth anyone gor nothing, simply out of rage and envy. Yes, indeed those birthday parties where one feels a cast away.....


Do you still live here in Portugal? Where are you from originally? I am interested in why you find the Portuguese to be so unfriendly...I have found that too, but not as a general stereotype - there are obviously exceptions in every situation.
Lol. Yes, it does kind of feel like the dark ages here sometimes simply because of people's attitudes. I mean I lived in the US before I came here - mostly in progressive San Francisco, and of course sometimes it feels like I have gone back in a time warp, and that is when I wonder what the hell I am doing here. I am not afraid that love won't last, because everything is impermant, life itself is impermanent and I embrace change always and try not to resist it. I don't live in fear that things will not work out, because we always have options when things change in our lives. I am not sure about the envy thing. My boyfriend is Portuguese and owns a bar here - he is well travelled and extremely open minded - more so than any other Portuguese man I have met here, so he's definitely a bit different, otherwise I don't think I would still be with him, lol.
Interntions is another club that might work for you in the Lisbon área. If you want to stay in this country you must keep trying. Still another problem here is getting services without people trying to steal from you or being discourteous to you, because you a foreigner. Believe me, big problems here are inescapable if you are from another country.
Eileen Vicente
I think that language is the biggest barrier. While one on one I can hold my own in Portuguese, I too feel uncomfortable in group social situations, where I can't follow or contribute to the conversation. I wonder if I'll ever improve!
I find that other immigrants can make for some fast and intimate friendships. But many times they are transient, leaving after a few months or a year.
I think another problem is age. Unless you're in your 20's it's not so easy to make friends even in your own country.
International Women in Portugal was mentioned, as was Internations. I joined both, but found that the former has most of its events in Cascais and during the week. I live in Lisboa and work weekdays. And the latter tends to be a meat market for 30-somethings.
I think the best strategy, at least one I'm trying to follow, is to join up with groups of people who share interests, hobbies, sports. And to try to speak better Portuguese :-)
Good luck to everyone here xxx
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Good luck
JV
I am still in the States but, I am thinking about going to live in Portugal and teach English or anything to just say I did it. After reading your post I felt like you were reading my mind. I am 56, female and have never traveled out of the states. I would like to get out of my comfort zone but, I have doubts. I feel that if I don't do it now I never will. I just have to say that I have not even left the States yet and I already have some of your same feelings. Which lets me know that I am not alone in my feelings and you have given me the courage to just do it.
Charlie Hardy
From personal experience I can tell you that in a non-English speaking country you're not going to make a lot of friends unless you learn the language well enough to carry on at least a basic conversation. It's just not going to happen!!!
You will find yourself locked within the https://www.expat.community, if you can find enough English speaking expats around you. Another thought that I'm sure never crosses the mind of most expats moving to non-English speaking countries, and could eventually pose life-threatening problems for those who resist learning the language; what on earth would you do in an emergency situation such as a medical emergency if you didn't speak the language well enough to tell the doctors and nurses what was wrong with you??? Your life could hinge on being able to find someone in the hospital who could speak both English and Portuguese fluently.
I learned Portuguese in Canada in 2001 at the age of 51, and arrived here in Brazil almost completely fluent on Jan. 10, 2002. Since that time my Portuguese has improved to the point where I read, write and speak it better than the vast majority of born Brazilians and do complex ENG<>PORT translations to make a bit of extra money. The language isn't all that difficult to learn, especially for those who've had any previous experience at all with Spanish or any other Latin based language.
I'm sorry, but if you've lived there in Portugual for two years now, and in a relationship with a Portuguese man, exposed constantly to the language and haven't already learned enough to get by, then you're simply not trying. Obviously your boyfriend is also an English speaker and the two of you are just taking the easy way out and communicating in English. This is only going to perpetuate your communication problems and sense of loneliness unless you force yourself to begin learning Portuguese.
I've been an ESL teacher for 28 years, 15 in Canada and 13 here in Brazil, I now also teach Portuguese to English speaking expats here too. I see problems just like yours here ALL the time. Invariably it is always someone who simply doesn't put themselves out, and just expects that they'll be able to communicate wherever they go in English. They buy into the BS line used by English schools that this is true, since English is the second most widely spoken language on earth. WRONG, and also a lie... English has long since lost its No. 2 position to Spanish and now sits in 3rd place. Also did you know that Portuguese is the 5th most widely spoken language?
Maybe my posting LEARN OVER A THOUSAND PORTUGUESE WORDS IN A FEW MINUTES will help you and give you the incentive to start learning the language, even if you have to force yourself to do so it will be well worth your efforts. Start at home by making sure your boyfriend only speaks to you in Portuguese, watch DVD's in Portuguese without subtitles, listen to Portuguese music, and read Portuguese newspapers, magazines and websites. The more you expose yourself to the language the easier you will find it to communicate with others. If you don't, then you already know what the future will hold for you, more loneliness and isolation from everyone around you.
Cheers,
James
Expat-blog Experts Team
Oh so true!
I've had literally thousands of ESL students over my 28 plus year career and I've also taught Portuguese to a number of English speaking expats since coming to Brazil over 13 years ago now. The only ones who have not picked up the new language enough to at least carry on normal conversations that would get them through almost any normal situation are the ones who simply didn't put in the effort required.
Anyone can learn a new language, and at any age, that excuse is pure rubbish. In fact, the younger one begins the better, but I've also seen numerous senior citizens learn, and they've done far better than younger individuals who were just not motivated. I don't know if Eileen Vincent has tried teaching any seniors but I can say from my own experience that her statement hasn't been proven out. I was nearly 52 when I learned Portuguese from square one, I picked it up quickly because I exposed myself to it as much as possible, literally creating my own immersion program.
While all Portuguese speaking countries have their own pronunciation and accents the language is the same language; moreso now that the CPLP harmonization of the language in all of them has been readily adopted. I've had no trouble whatsoever understanding and conversing with anyone from Portugal or Acores, even though I can certainly distinguish that their accents are very different from Brazilians. Before coming to Brazil I probably had more Portuguese friends than Brazilian ones, and I never saw any of them having difficulties in communications with any Brazilians either.
So far I see just excuses why people don't learn the language, but the bottom line is always motivation, practice and exposure. Living in a country where you use the language every single day rules out the absence of practice and exposure... what does that leave you?
I also find it ironic that if you go to the USA, many Americans have strong feelings that expats should be forced to learn English, and that they certainly should not be entitled to citizenship if they don't. Yet, these very same people move abroad and don't feel that others should have the same expectations for them.
Cheers,
James
Sorry, I've been to over half of the US states and it has not been my personal experience that most Americans are so accepting of the Spanish speaking Americans, and they certainly are not at all so gracious to those who speak other foreign languages.... especially Arabic. So please don't lecture me on your fellow countrymen. Sure in some places they have gotten used to being surrounded by Spanish speakers and do make an effort, and yes they do teach Spanish in the schools, although it is not as popular a course as it should be, or as is French being taught in Canadian schools. By and large the average American wants to see all Spanish speakers "go back to Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico, where they belong" (their attitude - not mine) and they're all furious with President Obama's efforts to legalize them. I've even seen signs in public places demanding that clients speak English, and staff won't even serve them unless they do. So please spare me.
That said, it still doesn't change the fact that any expat who decides to move (long-term) to a non-English speaking country with the expectation that they can get by only using English is making a grave error. Those who don't learn the local language simply aren't trying, or out of pure arrogance believe that the locals should deal with them in English... and you can't deny that fact. It is an idea that is even (falsely) promoted by English language schools worldwide that English is the second most widely spoken language in the world, which it hasn't been for years now, and that you can communicate with people everywhere in English. Great propaganda for them and their courses, but completely untrue.
Not learning and using the local language in any country is always going to set you apart from the local population and only going to cause you problems of some kind sooner or later.
Cheers,
James
By the way, I studied linguistics, on a master's level, and it was at that time that I learned that the older one is the more difficult it is to learn a foreign language. I really don't appreciate it when people give out false infromation. It just makes more problems for sure. It is not always that easy for some to learn a foreign language! I have taught many foreigners English and many other subjects as well. I'm a certified English teacher. In addition, I have my Master's in Special Education, and I have lived in at least 25 places in the USA, so I think I know what I'm talking about in reference to the USA and the way people are treated there. I also know the way people learn a foreign language and why they don't. I think it would be a good idea for you to do a bit of research about how people learn a foreign language, before you tell people that it's just a matter of practice and attitude. We are all different, which is something I think you need to learn very badly!
Perhaps you didn't notice or read in my previous postings, but I have been a teacher for over 28 years and have not only a degree in English but also a B.Ed. too. I also know from personal experience what I'm talking about too. Let's just agree to disagree... you see things one way, and I see them completely differently. It's clear that neither of us is going to "convert" the other.
Cheers,
James
Sorry, I have lived here for 11 years of lonliness, and every year I hope it will get better, but it just gets worse! Go home ASAP, before it's too late.
Good luck!
Eileen Vicente
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