Living in São Luis: the ultimate expat guide

The job market in São Luís reflects Maranhão's developing economy. While opportunities exist, expats should be aware that the state has one of Brazil's highest informality rates (56.8%) and relatively modest salaries compared to southern regions. Most foreign professionals work in specialized sectors or transfer with multinational companies operating in the port and mining industries.

Key Economic Sectors

The Port of Itaqui, the second deepest port in the world after Rotterdam, drives much of the local economy. Major employers include Vale (iron ore mining and export), Alumar (aluminum production), and companies in the agribusiness sector exporting soybeans and grains from central Brazil via the Carajás Railway. The service sector, including tourism, retail, and education, employs the majority of the workforce. Government positions also represent significant employment, given São Luís's status as state capital.

Work Permits and Visas

Foreign nationals require a VITEM V (Temporary Work Visa) to work legally in Brazil. This visa requires sponsorship from a Brazilian employer and is valid for two years, with the possibility of conversion to permanent residency. Applicants must demonstrate either two years of relevant experience plus nine years of education, a university degree plus one year of experience, or hold a post-graduate degree. Remote workers employed by foreign companies may apply for the Digital Nomad Visa (VITEM XIV), requiring proof of minimum USD 1,500 monthly income or USD 18,000 in savings.

The following table presents key employment indicators for the region:

Sources: IBGE – Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics, Continuous PNAD 2024

São Luís hosts several public and private higher education institutions, with the Federal University of Maranhão (UFMA) serving as the region's flagship university. While international programs are limited compared to major Brazilian cities, students benefit from tuition-free education at public universities and significantly lower living costs.

Federal University of Maranhão (UFMA)

Founded in 1966, UFMA is a large public university with approximately 30,000 to 35,000 students enrolled across its nine campuses throughout the state. The main campus, Cidade Universitária Dom Delgado, is located in São Luís and offers 49 undergraduate programs spanning social sciences, humanities, engineering, technology, and health sciences. UFMA has an Internationalization Directorate that manages academic exchange programs and partnerships with foreign institutions. Admission for Brazilian students occurs through SISU (Unified Selection System) based on ENEM scores, while international students may apply through specific exchange agreements.

Other Institutions

The State University of Maranhão (UEMA) complements the public higher education offering with programs in education, agriculture, and engineering. Private institutions include CEUMA University and various technical colleges offering professional certification courses. For postgraduate studies, UFMA offers master's and doctoral programs in fields such as public health, biodiversity, and Brazilian culture.

International students should note that instruction is conducted primarily in Portuguese, and proficiency certification (such as CELPE-Bras) is typically required for degree programs.

Sources: UFMA – Federal University of Maranhão, Times Higher Education

Families relocating to São Luís should be aware that the city currently lacks dedicated international schools offering curricula such as the International Baccalaureate or American/British programs. However, several reputable private Brazilian schools provide quality education, and the first bilingual school is scheduled to open in 2026.

Private School Options

The top-rated private schools in São Luís consistently perform well in national examinations (ENEM). Leading institutions include Escola Crescimento, Centro Educacional Montessoriano Reino Infantil, Colégio Educallis, Colégio Literato, and Colégio Dom Bosco. These schools are primarily located in the upscale neighborhoods of Jardim Renascença, Calhau, and Olho d'Água. Monthly tuition typically ranges from BRL 1,200 to BRL 2,000 (~USD 240-400), significantly lower than comparable schools in São Paulo.

Bilingual Education Coming Soon

The Ways Bilingual School, part of the Arco Educação group (Latin America's largest basic education ecosystem), is opening its first Maranhão campus in Araçagy (São José de Ribamar) in 2026. This full-time school will offer Early Childhood and Elementary education with curriculum aligned to Brazil's BNCC standards plus English immersion using the CLIL methodology.

Public Schools

The public education system includes the Colégio Universitário (COLUN) affiliated with UFMA and Colégio Militar da Polícia Militar do Maranhão, both considered among the better public options. Enrollment in public schools requires proof of residence and typically follows the academic calendar from February to December.

Sources: INEP – National Institute for Educational Studies, Quero Bolsa

São Luís offers remarkably affordable housing compared to Brazil's major cities, with modern apartments in desirable beachfront neighborhoods at a fraction of Rio or São Paulo prices. Most expats settle in the northern coastal areas, which combine ocean views, modern infrastructure, and proximity to restaurants and services.

Best Neighbourhoods for Expats

Renascença is an upscale residential and commercial district near Lagoa Jansen, featuring shopping centers, hospitals, and excellent infrastructure. It's ideal for families seeking convenience and security. Ponta d'Areia offers beachfront living close to the historic center, with numerous restaurants, reggae clubs, and Fort Santo Antônio for sunset views. Calhau is a sophisticated coastal neighborhood with wide avenues, modern high-rises, and access to one of the city's best beaches. São Francisco, located between Lagoa Jansen and the historic center, provides a balance of residential tranquility and commercial amenities.

Rental Prices

The rental market in São Luís offers excellent value. Apartments are typically rented unfurnished, and lease agreements require a deposit (caução) of one to three months' rent or a guarantor (fiador). The table below shows average monthly rents:

Sources: ZAP Imóveis, Viva Real, local market research 2024-2025

São Luís offers a distinctive cultural experience unlike anywhere else in Brazil, combining its UNESCO-listed colonial heritage, Afro-Brazilian traditions, and renowned reggae scene. The city serves as the perfect base for exploring one of Brazil's most spectacular natural wonders.

Cultural Highlights

The Historic Centre is an open-air museum with cobblestone streets, colonial mansions adorned with Portuguese azulejo tiles, and landmarks including the Palácio dos Leões (government palace), Teatro Arthur Azevedo, and numerous baroque churches. The Reggae Museum (Museu do Reggae) celebrates São Luís's unique status as the reggae capital outside Jamaica. Museums worth visiting include Casa do Maranhão, Casa de Nhozinho (folk art), and the Museum of Visual Arts.

The Bumba Meu Boi festival, recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, transforms the city during June and July with colorful parades, music, and theatrical performances blending Indigenous, African, and Portuguese traditions. Tambor de Crioula, an Afro-Brazilian drum and dance celebration, occurs year-round at various venues.

Beaches and Nature

Calhau Beach offers the best infrastructure with kiosks and restaurants. Ponta d'Areia features a pier and is closest to the city center, while São Marcos and Olho d'Água provide calmer waters. Day trips to Lençóis Maranhenses National Park depart from São Luís (approximately 4 hours by road to Barreirinhas), revealing surreal landscapes of white sand dunes and crystal-clear freshwater lagoons.

Nightlife centers on the historic center's bars and reggae clubs, particularly around Rua Portugal and Beco Catarina Mina, where live reggae fills the streets on weekends.

Sources: UNESCO World Heritage Centre, São Luís Tourism Portal, Visit Brasil

Daily life in São Luís moves at a relaxed tropical pace, influenced by the warm climate and strong cultural traditions. Expats should expect to adapt to local rhythms, including extended lunch breaks, evening social activities, and the importance of personal relationships in both professional and casual interactions.

Getting Around

São Luís relies entirely on buses for public transportation—there is no metro or urban train system. The Sistema Integrado de Transporte (SIT) operates through five integration terminals connecting different city zones. Bus fares range from BRL 2.95 to BRL 3.40, with the Bilhete Único card allowing transfers within two hours for a single fare. Buses typically run from 5:00 AM until midnight. A BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system is under development but not yet operational. Most middle and upper-class residents rely on private vehicles or ride-hailing apps (Uber, 99) for daily transportation. Taxis are available but more expensive.

Climate and Lifestyle

São Luís has a tropical climate with temperatures between 26°C and 32°C year-round. The rainy season runs from January to June, while the dry season (July to December) offers the best weather for beach activities. Daily life often revolves around the beaches, with families gathering at beachside kiosks (barracas) on weekends. Portuguese is essential for daily interactions, as English is rarely spoken outside tourist areas. Shopping options include Shopping da Ilha, Rio Anil Shopping, and Tropical Shopping, plus traditional markets like Mercado das Tulhas in the historic center for regional products and crafts.

Sources: São Luís Municipal Government, MOB – State Mobility Agency

São Luís ranks among the most affordable state capitals in Brazil, with living costs significantly lower than São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, or even northeastern cities like Recife and Salvador. Expats earning in foreign currencies will find their money stretches considerably further here.

Monthly Budget: Single Person

The following table estimates monthly expenses for a single person living in a mid-range neighborhood:

Monthly Budget: Family of Four

Families should budget for larger accommodation, school fees, and additional expenses:

Sources: Numbeo, Nomad List, local research 2024-2025