July 2009 - Moving to Nairobi-Expense Queries-Help & Guidance please!

We are a small family - two kids, a 2 yr old and an infant. I am moving in first and wife & kids will follow soon.
Had a few questions and am hoping some of you can answer!

This is July 2009 and monthly expense figures would really help...I am yet to freeze on remuneration, and am hoping that your answers would help me take a more informed decision.

1. Whats the cost of renting a three-bedroom fully furnished apartment? What does "fully furnished" mean in Nairobi!? :) How much do agents charge?

2. How much would a good family car cost and are Indian driver's license valid? How does an expat get a local license? How much should one budget for fuel if driving is moderate (work and city driving mostly)?

3. Safe to drive around Nairobi or are drivers/chauffeurs a better idea? How much do they cost?

4. How good is domestic help + a nanny and how much do they cost?

5. Typical cost of living per month for a family of 4, including a toddler in play school? Are there good play schools around and how much does schooling cost?

6. What are the essentials to carry? We are used to printed prices and reasonable pricing. Can we expect the same?

7. How good is medical care, especially for toddlers? Are hospitals safe, considering rampant HIV et al?

8. What are the options available for Internet and how much does internet cost? Is broadband common? If yes, then what speeds do you get?

9. Are mobile tariffs high? How about calling cards and such else?

10. Tips on safety & security - is it safe for a woman to drive around? Do we need private security at home? Is the local police efficient?

11.  How reliable and expensive are utilities like water, electricity etc?

12. What options does one have w.r.t. eating out, partying and such else..?

13. Finally, How stable is the country politically and economically and how does the future look?

Lots of questions there! But this is a big decision for us and we are really looking forward to this assignment and planning to stay for at least five years.

Thanks in advance for helping out! Any and all help would be highly appreciated!

1. Whats the cost of renting a three-bedroom fully furnished apartment? What does "fully furnished" mean in Nairobi!?  How much do agents charge?
It depends of the location and quality of the building...  In Nairobi, fully furnished 3-bedroom should be between 70,000 and 110,000 Kshs.  Prices are going up like crazy, but again you can bargain to get discount. Fully furnished is bed, table, sofa, etc, mostly locally made.  Agents will not charge you, they usually charge the owners, just call any agency and give them a price range.  Always enquire about water (availability, pressure) and power (blackouts)

2. How much would a good family car cost and are Indian driver's license valid? How does an expat get a local license? How much should one budget for fuel if driving is moderate (work and city driving mostly)?
A family car (second hand) will cost you between 600,000 Kshs (minibus or small 4x4) and 1,200,000 Kshs (=good).  A good new car, from 1,600,000 Kshs.  You can purchase an international driving license if you have a valid driving license.  Premium is now about 75 Kshs/litre, it depends of you car and distance from home to work, but count at least 8,000 Kshs per month

3. Safe to drive around Nairobi or are drivers/chauffeurs a better idea? How much do they cost?
If you are a good driver, then it is safe to drive in Nairobi during the day, be ready to fight sometimes like any other capital city.  Drivers/chauffeurs can be a good idea but employing someone can be problematic if you are not use to it (loan request, insurance, bad drivers who is going to rip you off on spare parts, thiefs or using your car for personal use, etc.).  From 8,000 Kshs to 12,000 Kshs per month + health insurance + contribution to pension funds + other minor expenses.

4. How good is domestic help + a nanny and how much do they cost?  They are plenty of domestic help available, finding a good one is the most difficult task.  Local people are used to underpay their staff (between 5,000 Kshs and 7,000 kshs), especially if staff live at your place - the main issue is that staff is unhappy, and therefore can easily steal from you. Leaving in Nairobi is very expenses, the same apply to your staff, therefore a reasonable salary should be between 10,000 and 14,000 Kshs per month (house allowance + transport allowance), then add on top of this a health insurance which is mandatory (about 20,000 Kshs per annum)

5. Typical cost of living per month for a family of 4, including a toddler in play school? Are there good play schools around and how much does schooling cost?
Hard to guess...  It depends of your lifestyle, but at least 160,000 Kshs mininum (80 for house + 24 for domestic help + 10 for petrol + 40 for food).  They are plenty of schools and kindergarten in Nairobi, more or less expensive

6. What are the essentials to carry? We are used to printed prices and reasonable pricing. Can we expect the same?
Sorry, don't understand this.  What's printed and reasonable price ???

7. How good is medical care, especially for toddlers? Are hospitals safe, considering rampant HIV et al?
Very good !! Though expensive...  Nairobi is a very modern city.  They are two hospitals (Aga Khan and Nairobi Hosp) and most doctors are good as well (most of them are Indian). But again, more expensive than in Europe or India I guess, but care is good if not better.  HIV ?? No problem, be safe. Other RARE disease are Polio, Meningitis, Cholera, etc, make sure your baby is up-to-date with vaccination.  Pneumonia, amibis (from food) and food intoxication, and Malaria/Paludism are common.  If you are worried, you can always ask your domestic help to do a full analysis (not legal but you can ask).

8. What are the options available for Internet and how much does internet cost? Is broadband common? If yes, then what speeds do you get?
They are 4 leading companies. Broadband is not common yet as the main cable is still shared between Internet users, nonetheless 4 optic cables will land in Kenya this year, therefore broadband will be there in 2010.  Nowadays, you can have a 3g (shared) modem for 3,000 Kshs then you pay 7 kshs per MB.

9. Are mobile tariffs high? How about calling cards and such else?
Very very cheap !! Kenya is one of the most advanced countries in the world regarding mobile communication.  Competitivity is high and prices very low.  They are plenty of options (prepaid and postpaid). We even have system to pay your bills, friends, taxi, etc. directly using your phone (MPesa) ! Again, it is moving so fast here with the optic cables coming this year.

10. Tips on safety & security - is it safe for a woman to drive around? Do we need private security at home? Is the local police efficient?
It is during the day, less at night.  Avoid to drive at night, especially if you are new.  Avoid crowded areas or suburbs/slums.  Nairobi is often dubbed "Nairobbery" and crime has been high the last two weeks (due to crisis => poverty). About private security at home, in an apartment (or shared compound) is not necessary but recommended.  In a private house (with garden), it is necessary.  All windows are protected with metal bars.  Local police is totally inefficient, as the Kenyan police has been ranked lately one of the most corrupted institution of Africa.  Private security are expensive, a guard will cost you 30,000 Kshs per month;  a panic button (installe at your place to call security companies) will cost you 6,000 Kshs per month


11.  How reliable and expensive are utilities like water, electricity etc?
It depends of your area, but more expensive that in developed countries.  The problem is not the price, it is the availability.  Currently, water rationing is there (get water one or twice a week). Usually, water is then pumped into another tank on the roof. And power failure are part of our daily life.  It is recommended also to install security/safe switch on your equipment (fridge, TV, etc.) to protect them from power variation - last month we got 412 volts instead of 240 v and most equipment burnt out.

12. What options does one have w.r.t. eating out, partying and such else..?
Kenyans love to party, there plenty of eating out and partying places in Nairobi.  Since there are many foreigners of different nationalities in Nairobi (due to NGO), there are plenty of restaurants (Japanese, Lebanese, Italian, French, Indian, etc..). 

13. Finally, How stable is the country politically and economically and how does the future look?
Economically, the country is doing well as privatization is there.  Most international companies are installed in Kenya and I can say the country is doing well despite the current crisis and the corruption (which is very high in the Police and judicial system). Politically, hmmmm....  It is bad, politicians are corrupted and only think of themselves. Currently, following the last election, there is a shared government between the two major political parties but they are failing to resolve the main issues the country is facing. Next election will be held in 2012. Future is unpredictable

Peperuka to the rescue! Your inputs are always practical and very useful. I too will be heading to Nairobi in October and my office is located at the Nairobi Business Park, Karen. Could you recommend a safe and decent locality close to the Business Park? I'm looking for a 1 Bed room and have a budget of approx 60,000 Ksh. Merci beaucoup!

@thejoker - Actually, Karen is cheaper because it is far from city centre (about 20 km) and also because there are lot of guest houses/bungalows for rent.  So Karen would be the best place for you and for a 1-bedroom, you can definitely find something cheap (between 25k to 40k).

Try to contact Karen-Langata link, I am sure they will find something for you - http://www.langatalink.com/index.html

Peperuka

Wow! Peperuka..that is the warmest welcome I could expect. Thank you so very much! Am I one informed expat now or what! :):)

Wanted to detail out question 6. What are the essentials to carry? We are used to printed prices and reasonable pricing. Can we expect the same?

So in India (and am sure elsewhere!) all items are labeled with expiry & max permissible retail prices. Does the same apply @ Nairobi or prices differ across stores/basis availability etc?

Also, if you could help with the essential item one should carry..I read somewhere that small things like razors are really expensive :D

Thanks so much yet again!

So here I am - in Nairobi for the last few months now. My family joined me last Sunday, and must admit, that Nairobi has been good to us!
Thank you Peperuka - -everything you have mentioned above is absolutely correct and helped a lot while I went around finding a house, car etc.
Looking forward to great times!
Cheers!

Hi AfricaLove

Enjoy your stay in Nairobi !!  I am sure your family will easily get used to Nairobi's lifestyle.

Just by curiosity, in which area are you in (Westlands,  Parklands, Kilimani) ?  And how do you find the Indian community in Kenya ?

Enjoy Nairobi and stay safe !!

Cheers

Thanks Peperuka!
I stay in Lavington..
The Indian community has been a mixed bunch so far.. The natives live in their own silos. Expats are more sociable though.
I have been able to mix far better with the Nairobians including Kenyans and KCs! I am not complaining though... the city and its residents have been really warm to us, especially Kenyans. Lucky for me, we have a huge expat bunch at our offices and that has helped us a lot.

Hi,
I have just got a job offer as a IT Manager from Kenya ( Nairobi) based company (Owner is Indian). They have offered me Kshs 1,24,000 per month + Bachelor Accommodation and Veg FOOD provided by company and +common transportation. This offer is for initial joining. After six month company will revised my salary and give me a family status.

When family will join that time, company will take care my family joining visa only. No other benefits (like Medical for family + children education allowance and family joining air fare expense..etc . These all expense, I have to bear so please guide. is it good offer ? Can I save money in my current salary package ?

awating for your guidance..

Already posted and replied here - https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.p … 4803#80549

Hi, I am working in Dar es salaam, tanzania for last 6 months. Now my company wants to send me to Nairobi, Kenya. I am getting salary $1000 and flat.I think my company will not increase my salary when I go to kenya. Please suggest will I & my wife be able to maintane same standard of living as in Dar es salaam with $1000 and company flat. Is cost of living in dar es salaam and nairobi same. Will I be able to save little, which I am doing now.

USD 1000 will just about meet your living expenses (groceries, transport, utilities, entertainment). If you're frugal you might save some money but don't bank on it. The cost of living in Nairobi is relatively high.

Thanks. Can I have your mail id so that we can xchange some mails where in i need your help