Living in Ouagadougou: the ultimate expat guide

The employment landscape in Ouagadougou is primarily centered around specific sectors, with most international workers employed by NGOs, international development organizations, embassies, and multilateral agencies. The local economy is dominated by agriculture, which employs over 74% of the workforce, followed by services at 18.8% and industry at 7%. However, expatriate opportunities are concentrated in specialized fields requiring technical expertise.

Key Employment Sectors for Expatriates

International organizations and NGOs form the backbone of expatriate employment in Ouagadougou. Organizations such as the United Nations, World Bank, African Development Bank, and numerous humanitarian agencies maintain operations in the city. The development sector offers positions in project management, technical advisory roles, monitoring and evaluation, and humanitarian coordination. The mining sector, particularly gold extraction, attracts technical professionals from Canada, Australia, and other countries, though operations are significantly affected by security challenges.

The education sector provides opportunities for international teachers at institutions like the International School of Ouagadougou and the Université Ouaga I Joseph Ki-Zerbo. Healthcare positions exist for doctors, nurses, and medical specialists willing to work in challenging conditions. Small businesses catering to the expatriate community, including restaurants, hotels, and service providers, also create entrepreneurial opportunities.

Work Permits and Employment Regulations

Foreign nationals require a work permit to be legally employed in Burkina Faso. The process involves obtaining sponsorship from a Burkinabé employer who must demonstrate that no qualified local candidate is available for the position. Work permits are typically tied to specific employers and positions. The Director of Labor must authorize employment contracts for non-nationals. In professions with high unemployment among Burkinabé citizens, job-seeker cards are not issued to foreigners. Most expatriates enter the country on employment visas arranged by their sponsoring organizations, which handle the bureaucratic requirements. Processing times can be lengthy, often taking several weeks to months.

Employment Conditions and Salary Expectations

The following table provides an overview of the employment situation in Ouagadougou as of 2025:

Sources: Numbeo, World Bank, African Development Bank

Expatriate salaries vary widely depending on the employer and sector. International organizations typically offer comprehensive packages including housing allowances, hardship pay, security support, medical evacuation insurance, and education allowances for dependent children. French is the official language and essential for professional integration, though many international organizations operate in English within their teams.

Ouagadougou is home to Burkina Faso's premier higher education institution, the Université Ouaga I Joseph Ki-Zerbo (formerly University of Ouagadougou), which serves as the country's flagship university. Founded in 1974, the university has grown from 374 students to over 44,000 students as of 2025, making it one of the largest universities in French-speaking West Africa. While most programs are conducted in French, the university attracts some international students and offers exchange programs through partnerships with institutions worldwide.

Université Ouaga I Joseph Ki-Zerbo

The university is organized into seven Training and Research Units (UFR) and one institute, covering diverse academic fields. The institution offers bachelor's degrees, master's degrees, and doctoral programs across multiple disciplines. The main campus is located in the Dagnöen Nord area of Ouagadougou, with additional campuses in Bobo-Dioulasso and Koudougou.

Academic divisions include: Languages, Arts and Communications; Human Sciences; Legal and Political Sciences; Economic Sciences and Management; Applied Sciences (Mathematics, Computer Science, Physics, Chemistry); Health Sciences (Medicine, Pharmacy); and Life and Earth Sciences. The university maintains 54 research laboratories, a library system with over 15,000 volumes, sports facilities, and on-campus housing for some students.

Tuition fees at Université Ouaga I are relatively low for local students, typically ranging from $100 to $500 per year depending on the program. International students may face slightly higher fees. The university has a selective admission policy based on academic records and entrance examinations. Applicants must demonstrate proficiency in French, as it is the primary language of instruction. The academic year runs from October to June, organized into two semesters.

International Programs and Partnerships

The university participates in international exchange programs, including Erasmus Mundus partnerships with European institutions. The institution has developed collaborations focused on research in agriculture, renewable energy, public health, and African heritage studies. While the university has made strides in research output and academic recognition within francophone Africa, prospective international students should be aware that educational infrastructure may differ significantly from Western standards.

For more information about admissions, programs, and international partnerships, prospective students can visit the university's official website or contact the international relations office directly. Given the current security situation, international students are advised to consult their home country's travel advisories and ensure they have appropriate security arrangements before enrolling.

Sources: uniRank, Wikipedia - University of Ouagadougou

Expatriate families in Ouagadougou have access to several international and French schools that cater specifically to the needs of foreign residents. The most prominent option is the International School of Ouagadougou (ISO), which provides an English-language curriculum. French families typically choose the École Française de Ouagadougou (EFO), which follows the French national curriculum. The education options are designed to ensure continuity for children of diplomats, development workers, and other international professionals.

International School of Ouagadougou (ISO)

Established in 1976, ISO is a nonprofit, independent, coeducational day school offering an English-language educational program for children aged 3 to 19, from Pre-K through Grade 12. The school serves children from diverse backgrounds, including those of diplomats, businesspeople, and international development organization staff. ISO is fully accredited by the Middle States Association of Colleges and Schools (MSA), with accreditation valid through May 1, 2028.

The school is also authorized by the International Baccalaureate (IB), allowing graduating students to receive both a U.S. High School Diploma and an IB Diploma. The academic year consists of 180 days of instruction, organized into two semesters running from August through January and February through June. As of the 2024-2025 school year, ISO serves approximately 180 students with a faculty of about 17 teachers, including U.S. citizens, host-country nationals, and third-country nationals.

The campus features extensive facilities including a large playing field, swimming pool, basketball and tennis courts, a 300-seat auditorium, science laboratories, computer labs, a library with 15,000 volumes, and a maker's space. The school maintains dedicated internet connectivity and is fully networked with computers available throughout campus.

Tuition Fees and Enrollment

For the 2025-2026 school year, annual tuition rates at ISO are as follows:

Sources: ISO School Fees, U.S. Department of State

Tuition fees are payable in Euros, U.S. Dollars, or CFA Francs. Many expatriate families have their tuition covered by employer education allowances. A $500 deposit is required by April 30th to guarantee enrollment for the following year. Payment plans are available upon approval by the Business Office. Students must be 3 years old by October 30th for Pre-K3/Pre-K4 admission, 5 years old for Kindergarten, and 6 years old for first grade.

Other Educational Options

The École Française de Ouagadougou (EFO) serves French-speaking expatriate families and follows the French Ministry of Education curriculum. The school is part of the AEFE network (Agency for French Education Abroad) and prepares students for French national exams. Additionally, several private local schools offer bilingual education options, though these are generally less common for expatriate children. The local Burkinabé education system operates primarily in French, with schools following the national curriculum.

Given the security situation, both ISO and international schools have implemented comprehensive safety protocols. Parents should inquire about security measures, evacuation procedures, and school policies regarding closures during security incidents when considering enrollment.

Housing in Ouagadougou varies significantly depending on location, size, and amenities. Most expatriates reside in the Ouaga 2000 district and other neighborhoods with established international communities, where housing infrastructure is more developed and security measures are typically better implemented. The city's residential architecture includes spacious villas left from the colonial era, modern apartment buildings, and newly constructed compounds designed specifically for international residents.

Expat-Friendly Neighborhoods

Ouaga 2000 is the most sought-after area for expatriates, located in the southeastern part of the city. This planned neighborhood houses government buildings, diplomatic missions, and upscale residential properties. The area features better infrastructure, paved roads, and proximity to international schools and embassies. Security presence is higher in this district compared to other parts of the city.

The Zogona area, where the International School of Ouagadougou is located, attracts many expatriate families due to its proximity to the school. The Zone du Bois and areas near the French Cultural Center are also popular among international residents, offering a mix of villas and apartment buildings with reasonable access to amenities. The city center provides easier access to markets, restaurants, and administrative services, though it can be more congested.

However, the U.S. Embassy specifically discourages travel to the Balkiui and Rayongo neighborhoods in Arrondissement 11 due to historically high crime rates, even for U.S. government personnel.

Types of Housing and Average Costs

Expatriate housing typically falls into two categories: spacious villas with multiple bedrooms, compounds with security features, and gardens; or apartments in modern buildings with amenities such as air conditioning, backup generators, and security guards. Most expatriate housing is furnished or semi-furnished, as moving personal furniture to Burkina Faso can be expensive and logistically challenging.

The following table shows average monthly rental costs in Ouagadougou as of 2025:

Sources: Numbeo, ExpatWoman

It is important to note that housing suited to expatriate standards (with reliable electricity, water, security features, and maintenance) typically falls in the higher price ranges. Many international organizations provide housing allowances that cover these costs. Kitchens in Burkinabé homes are often basic, as the local culture traditionally relies on domestic help for meal preparation.

Rental Procedures and Considerations

Rental agreements in Ouagadougou typically require several months' rent in advance as a deposit, often equivalent to three to six months' rent. Landlords generally expect payment in CFA Francs, though some accept U.S. Dollars or Euros for expatriate tenants. It is advisable to work with a rental agent or relocation service, particularly one recommended by your employer or embassy, to navigate the local market and ensure properties meet security and quality standards.

Key considerations when renting include: verifying that the property has reliable water and electricity supply (power cuts are common), ensuring adequate security features such as walls, gates, and guards if required, checking for backup generators or solar power systems, confirming that air conditioning units are functional (Ouagadougou has a hot climate), and understanding what maintenance and utilities are included in the rent. Most expatriates also budget for hiring household help, which is both culturally expected and economically important, as it provides employment opportunities for local residents.

Despite the current security challenges, Ouagadougou maintains a vibrant cultural scene, particularly in the arts and music. The city is renowned throughout Africa as a center for film, hosting the continent's most prestigious cinema festival. Cultural life centers around museums, markets, traditional ceremonies, and the city's numerous restaurants and cafes that cater to both locals and expatriates.

Cultural Attractions and Museums

The National Museum of Burkina Faso provides comprehensive insights into the country's ethnographic and cultural heritage, showcasing traditional masks, musical instruments, and artifacts from various ethnic groups. The museum offers guided tours in French and is an excellent starting point for understanding Burkinabé culture. The National Museum of Music, located on Oubritenga Avenue, houses an impressive collection of traditional musical instruments from across West Africa, with over 200-year-old instruments exhibited alongside modern pieces.

The Moro-Naba Palace serves as the residence of the Mogho Naba, the traditional ruler of the Mossi people, who constitute the largest ethnic group in Burkina Faso. Every Friday morning, visitors can witness the Moro-Naba ceremony, a 15-minute traditional ritual depicting the king's preparation for war. This ceremony is one of the most important cultural experiences available in Ouagadougou. The Laongo Sculpture Symposium, located about 30 kilometers from the city, features impressive granite sculptures created by artists from around the world, set within a natural landscape.

FESPACO: Africa's Premier Film Festival

The Pan-African Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou (FESPACO) is one of Africa's largest and most prestigious film festivals, held biennially in late February or early March. Established in 1969, FESPACO celebrates African cinema and attracts filmmakers, actors, and cinema enthusiasts from across the continent and beyond. The festival features film screenings, awards ceremonies, workshops, and cultural events throughout the city. During FESPACO years, Ouagadougou becomes a hub of artistic activity, and the city's hotels and venues fill with visitors. The festival headquarters can be visited year-round to see statues of past Étalon de Yennenga award winners (the festival's top prize) and learn about African cinema history.

Markets and Shopping

The Grand Marché (Rood Woko Market) is one of West Africa's largest markets and a cornerstone of daily life in Ouagadougou. The market offers an overwhelming array of goods including colorful fabrics, traditional clothing, silver jewelry, leather goods, pottery, baskets, masks, and musical instruments. The Village Artisanal (Handicraft Village) showcases local artisans at work, with demonstrations of traditional crafts such as bronze casting, leather tooling, weaving, and wood carving. The Sankariare Market specializes in textiles and is popular for purchasing traditional Burkinabé clothing and fabrics with unique prints.

The International Handicrafts Fair of Ouagadougou (SIAO), held biennially in late October or early November, is a major trade fair attracting artisans and craftspeople from across Africa. The fair promotes African crafts and provides opportunities to purchase high-quality handmade goods directly from producers.

Parks and Outdoor Spaces

Parc Urbain Bängr-Weoogo, located in the city center, is Ouagadougou's main urban park covering approximately 2.63 square kilometers. The park features natural vegetation, walking trails, a small zoo with local wildlife, and picnic areas. It's a popular spot for families and provides a green escape within the city. However, visitors should be aware of safety considerations and avoid visiting at dusk or after dark.

Dining and Nightlife

Ouagadougou offers a range of dining options, from local street food to international restaurants. Burkinabé cuisine features dishes such as riz gras (rice with tomatoes and meat), tô (thick millet or corn porridge served with sauce), poulet bicyclette (grilled chicken), and fufu (cassava or cornmeal). Popular restaurants serving international cuisine include establishments offering French, Lebanese, Italian, and Asian food. The Aziz Istanbul Café and similar establishments offer coffee, light meals, and meeting spaces for expatriates.

Several hotels feature swimming pools, bars, and restaurants that serve as social hubs for the expatriate community. The Ouagadougou Expat Association organizes social events, networking opportunities, and family activities, providing an important support network for international residents. Due to security concerns, nightlife options are limited, and evening activities are generally confined to hotel premises or private gatherings. Many expatriates socialize within compounds or organized events rather than venturing out extensively after dark.

Sports and Recreation

Fitness facilities are available in major hotels and some standalone gyms, with monthly memberships costing approximately $75. Tennis courts can be rented for about $8 per hour. The International School of Ouagadougou offers sports facilities including swimming pools, basketball courts, and playing fields, some of which may be accessible to community members. Organized sports leagues and activities are often coordinated through expatriate communities and international organizations.

Given the security environment, outdoor recreational activities and travel outside the capital require careful planning and appropriate security measures. Many international organizations restrict staff travel outside Ouagadougou, and road trips should not be undertaken without proper security assessments and protocols.

Daily life in Ouagadougou requires significant adaptation for most expatriates, particularly in terms of climate, infrastructure, and security awareness. The city experiences a tropical savanna climate with two distinct seasons: a dry season from November to April with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F), and a rainy season from May to October. Most expatriates find that adjusting to the heat and dust is one of the first challenges upon arrival. Air conditioning is essential for comfort, and staying hydrated is crucial year-round.

Transportation and Getting Around

Public transportation in Ouagadougou consists primarily of minibuses known as "woro-woros," which are inexpensive but often crowded and operate on irregular schedules. A one-way ticket costs approximately $0.17 (100 CFA). However, most expatriates avoid public minibuses due to security concerns and instead rely on private transportation.

Taxis are widely available, with standard tariffs starting at $0.50 (300 CFA). It is essential to negotiate the fare before starting the journey or ensure the taxi has a working meter. Moto-taxis (motorcycle taxis) are popular for short distances but pose safety risks; helmets should always be worn. Many expatriates hire private drivers or use cars provided by their employers, which offers greater safety and reliability.

Renting or purchasing a vehicle is common among long-term residents. A Toyota Corolla costs approximately $35,000, and gasoline is priced at about $1.40 per liter (850 CFA). However, due to ongoing security concerns, U.S. government employees are prohibited from traveling outside the capital, and many organizations implement similar restrictions for their staff. Road conditions vary significantly, with paved roads primarily in urban centers and unpaved roads in rural areas. Highway banditry has occurred, particularly on intercity routes, making road travel outside Ouagadougou inadvisable without proper security arrangements.

Lifestyle and Cultural Adaptation

French is the official language and essential for daily transactions, though over 60 local languages are spoken, with Mooré and Dioula being the most common. While English is spoken within international organizations and at some international schools, very little English is used in shops, markets, or government offices. Learning at least basic French is highly recommended before arrival.

Cultural norms in Burkina Faso emphasize respect, courtesy, and community. Greetings are important; taking time to greet people properly is considered essential, and failing to do so can be perceived as rude. Eating and offering items with the right hand is the cultural norm. The pace of life is generally slower than in Western countries, and patience is necessary when dealing with administrative processes or services.

Employing household staff is both common and culturally expected. Even modest Burkinabé families typically employ domestic help, and expatriates are generally expected to do the same as a form of social responsibility that creates employment. This might include a housekeeper, cook, gardener, and/or security guard. Domestic workers typically earn between $80 to $150 per month depending on their role and experience.

The local markets, particularly the Grand Marché and Rood Woko Market, are vibrant centers of commerce where fresh produce, meat, household goods, and traditional crafts can be purchased. However, expatriates should exercise caution and be aware of their surroundings in crowded market areas. Many goods and medications are available locally and often cheaper than bringing them from abroad, though some specialty or imported items may be difficult to find.

Utilities and Connectivity

Electricity supply in Ouagadougou can be unreliable, with frequent power cuts. Most expatriate housing includes backup generators or solar power systems. Basic utilities (electricity, water, waste collection) for a standard apartment cost approximately $150 per month (89,500 CFA). Internet connectivity is available through several providers, with unlimited data plans (60 Mbps or higher) costing around $47 per month. Internet service is relatively reliable in urban areas, particularly in Ouagadougou and Ouaga 2000, but can be inconsistent in more remote locations. Major telecom providers include Orange, Telmob, and Airtel, offering 3G and 4G mobile services. Mobile phone plans with calls and 10GB+ data cost approximately $33 per month.

Given the security situation, it is essential to maintain multiple communication channels, keep devices charged, and have backup power sources available. Many expatriates maintain satellite phones or portable Wi-Fi devices as contingency measures.

The cost of living in Ouagadougou is significantly lower than in most Western cities, approximately 60% cheaper than New York City and 47% cheaper than Chicago according to 2025 data. However, it's important to understand that this comparison is based on Western lifestyle standards. For expatriates maintaining international living standards with imported goods, secure housing, international schools, and frequent travel, costs can be substantially higher than local averages suggest. Most expatriate packages include housing allowances, education benefits, hardship pay, and security support to offset these expenses.

Monthly Living Costs for a Single Person

The following table outlines estimated monthly expenses for a single expatriate living in Ouagadougou with a moderate to comfortable lifestyle:

Sources: Numbeo, LivingCost.org

Monthly Living Costs for a Family of Four

For expatriate families, costs increase significantly due to housing needs, international school tuition, and larger household requirements:

Sources: Numbeo, International School of Ouagadougou

Additional Cost Considerations

Several factors can significantly impact expatriate budgets in Ouagadougou. International school tuition is the largest expense for families, ranging from $3,600 to $21,200 per child annually depending on grade level. Most international organizations provide education allowances to cover these costs. Healthcare requires comprehensive international medical insurance with medical evacuation coverage, as local healthcare facilities are limited. Evacuation insurance is essential and can cost $200 to $500 per month per family. Security measures such as secure housing with guards, armored vehicles for some organizations, and security protocols add to living costs but are necessary given the current environment. Travel and R&R (rest and recuperation) is important for expatriates living in hardship locations; many organizations provide regular breaks and travel allowances. Flights to neighboring countries or Europe are essential for maintaining well-being.

Food costs vary depending on shopping habits. Local markets offer fresh produce at low prices, but imported goods at supermarkets catering to expatriates are significantly more expensive. A typical meal at an inexpensive restaurant costs $5.80, while a three-course meal for two at a mid-range restaurant costs approximately $22.50. Cinema tickets are $8.30, and a monthly fitness club membership costs around $75.

Currency is the West African CFA Franc (XOF), pegged to the Euro at a fixed rate. As of 2025, the approximate exchange rate is 1 USD = 600 CFA. Banking services are available, though international transfers can take time. Most expatriates maintain bank accounts both locally and in their home countries.