Living in South Africa

Hi, my name is Kate and I'm an American....I currently live in the United Arab Emirates but will probably be relocating to South AFrica some time this year. The move from the US to the UAE has been very difficult for me and I hope to gather information on living in South Africa so that I feel more prepared for the change. My husband is South African so it may not be quite as difficult as it is for other expats, but I am very nervous about what opportunities there will be for me in the work field, and also about the state of South AFrica's economy and government.  I am hoping I can talk to some Americans currently living in South Africa to get some input on what life is like there now.

Hi there
I am Amelia, born and bred a South African. My advice to all who want to relocate to SA, DON'T! A lot of us want to get out of here. People have no sense of humanity and your life is worth less than your cellphone. I am tired to live like a jailbird in my own house, have big vicious dogs outside and one inside the house (early alarm). If you would like to live like that, it is up to you. As it was mentioned earlier, our beautiful land is in great turmoil, Parliament is a circus and crime is VERY HIGH. Try another country to live in, especially if you have (or want to have) children. There's no future here, unemployment is high and school pass rate is about 27%. Most youngsters that leave school today, can't even spell correctly or read properly. Is this really what you want? Think twice ......

I really don't have a choice. I don't necessarily WANT to live in South Africa, but because of my husband's career we probably will end up there (he's a wildlife biologist who specializes in carnivores). He is South African and I'm afraid he has a rather romantic picture of the South Africa he left behind in the late 90's. I also think that if his elderly parents didn't live there he might not go back. Sigh....anyway, though I unde your comment, and know there's truth in it, I am really not looking for negative feedback. I am looking for more practical advice like cost of healthcare, job opportunities, safe areas/towns to live in, etc, minus personal opinion. Thanks anyway.

Hi Kate,

welcome to Expat.com! :)

i created a new topic as from your post on the South Africa forum for better visibility and have advices on your questions.

Thank you.
Christine

Hi Kate
Sorry for my bluntness in my post, but that is reality. This is not meant to sound like my personal opinion, but if you go to my profile and know that I am an ex-police officer, then you would understand that I know more than the average person on the street. And yes, since the 90's we went through a whole new transformation. Good luck with your move and I really mean it from my heart.
Healthcare are expensive, but there's a good company Liberty life for medical aid, but don't forget to add a "gap hospital plan" with it (mine is R127 pm) then you don't have to put down a deposit before you are helped in the hospitals for emergency. A doctors visit will cost you anything between R350 to R500 for a consultation, excluding prescripts (R50) and or medication. Safe places - there I can't help you. Job opportunities - most companies are now BBE, so it would be rather difficult to get a proper, high paying job. I would suggest to 1st get a job and then come here to work.
Maybe this link from the business magazine would help you to understand : http://businesstech.co.za/news/governme … t-of-jobs/
Regards
Amelia

Hi Amelia.

Check your Yahoo mail account.

Mooi loop.

Thank you very much for the well wishes, I appreciate it :-)

Hi Kate,

I myself am a European immigrant living in SA with my South African fiance. I've been living in SA for almost two years now.

Please don't be deceived by negative feedback only. South Africa is like all countries in the world: it has its good points and its bad points. You'll find that South African people are friendly, chatty and love a good braai! Of course, like all parts of the world, you'll find unfriendly South Africans too. South African people also tend to be a bit more old-fashioned and conservative in their morals and beliefs, unlike people in Europe, but of course, there are plenty of progressive thinkers too!

There is a bit of political turmoil in South Africa, but what country doesn't experience that? It's just that the matter is delicate here, because the scars left from apartheid still run deep in the South African people and government. You should not have to fear for your life due to political unrest in South Africa, unlike some neighbouring countries.

The topic of crime is a different matter: I'm sure your hubby will advise you on what to do. Be vigilant at all times, even when visiting "safe" areas. It won't ever hurt you to look around and see what's happening, since crime is unfortunately a common thing. Apply common sense: don't walk alone at night, in quiet areas. During the day, stick to busy roads and don't visit bad areas. Don't expose valuables. Lock your car, and look around you when driving through your gate. When alone at home, make sure that you can sound your alarm quickly should something happen. I myself have never been the victim of crime in South Africa (thank goodness - and hope it never happens). Just be a bit more cautious than usual. Sure, you can read news of crime and make yourself as paranoid as you want, but what's the use in living in your own prison? Just enjoy life, be careful and the chances of something happening to you are slim. Life in South Africa is generally enjoyable, and people will come to your aid should you be in trouble. It's a beautiful country, and there are plenty of places where you can feel secure and comfortable.

Healthcare wise - most people with a higher income visit private clinics. I've never been to a public hospital, since everyone, including my fiance, say it's a definite "no-no". So if anyone has visited a public hospital, experiences are welcome, since I cannot vouch for its reliability. Private clinics cost about what you expect to pay for healthcare in most countries. No complaints here. Medical aid per month for two people - roughly R 3000.

Groceries-wise, it all depends on what you're used to spending in the US. Personally, my fiance and I spend about R 4500 per month on groceries. I'm sure you can work out what that comes up to. We do splurge on food occasionally. Eating out is surprisingly easy and cheap, you'll find that a lot of South Africans go out to eat quite often.

Most people use cars to get around. Public transport not really existent, not advisable to use since mostly unsafe. Having a car is therefore a must, which can get a bit frustrating sometimes.

Finding a job is not impossible in South Africa - especially if you have the correct work experience and qualifications. Don't be discouraged! South African work environments are very driven and dynamic, so be prepared for higher demands at the work place. When I came here, I had a bit of a shock how much some South Africans work and how enthusiastic they are. But maybe that's because we live in the Gauteng province. Heard that people from other provinces are a bit more laid-back. Also, if you work for a bigger company, I can imagine that a 9-to-5 job would be mostly the same as an office job in the US. I really can't help you on job advice though.

The only highly frustrating thing about SA is...well getting anything done on an official scale.
So brace yourself if you are in need of a visa, traffic register number etc.
I once wanted to start pulling my hair out.
Even getting a bank account can sometimes be a lengthy process. All government institutions have this illusion that getting document copies "certified" (stamped at a police station or post office) will immediately make them legitimate. Therefore, certify all your copies! And be patient... write off a few hours if you need something done at Home Affairs or the Traffic Licensing Department. Though lately a lot of processes have been simplified, and once you are established, all will be well.

Going on holiday is also surprisingly affordable here, and there are plenty of beautiful places to visit.

To sum everything up: South Africa is not the "perfect" country to live in, but is there such a country? Take everything with a pinch of salt. This is truly a beautiful, thriving place to live in. Change is always present in South Africa, even though it may not always be pleasant. Life isn't as expensive here as the Western World (though it's getting there), and overall the quality of life is way higher if you have a good income in comparison with the general population. Chin up, and face life with a positive outlook, and you'll enjoy it here! You'll feel so much more free than other countries, it's wild and exhilarating.
And also, there is nothing in this world like an African sunset!

Sorry for the long post, and good luck! Please don't be discouraged, life in South Africa can truly be very enjoyable.

Wow, I actually want to thank you very much for your long and indepth post.  It has lots of practical info and to be honest I'm glad to hear that it's not all doom and gloom.  It's odd, it seems to be a country that either people love or hate.  Most white South Africans seem to really dislike it but maybe that's just because I'm only hearing one side.  Whereas many of the expats I speak to seem to like it, but also are realistic.

Just out of curiosity, where are you originally from?

I hear you on the insanely slow bureaucracy and documentation - my husband and I got married in Knysna and it took an astonishing 1 and a half years!!! to get our marriage license. (fortunately we had a temporary license).  It absolutely boggles my mind at how anything like that could take so long.

Old fashioned and conservative is not something I particularly look forward to - but I am aware of it.  My inlaws are frustratingly stodgy and conservative (they're long-time residents of SA originally from the UK), and I've met a few others that hold those beliefs too.  But - I am currently in the Middle East and, it's not exactly well known for its equality, progressive ideals or liberal views, to put it mildly. My husband usually hangs around the biologist/ecologist set, and most of them are a little more open-minded.

South Africa IS a beautiful country, I agree.  I have been there 4 or 5 times already and have had the privilege of seeing much of the Garden Route (my inlaws live in Brenton-on-Sea/Knysna, and yes, they do have fantasic sunsets), some of the Eastern Cape, the Karoo , Johannesburg, Pietermaritzburg, Kruger Park and Dullstrom.  I've not seen Cape Town or Stellenbosch yet but very much look forward to doing so (and hitting lots of wineries :-) ).

Oh, one quick question - what city/province/area are you in? If you're in Joburg or Pretoria I would be very interested in knowing what areas of town you consider the safest to live.

Anyway, I do hope I can keep a positive outlook even though I know it will be frustrating at times. Thanks again for your input and I hope that we can sort of stay in touch; info like you've given me is much appreciated!

Glad you enjoyed reading it!
Sorry, I felt like I had to rant a bit, since so many "white" South Africans make their own country sound like an unpleasant place to reside. But I'm sure every South African out there realizes that despite corruption and crime (which are not as bad as they are made out to be), their country is really quite lovely. If I were born in Africa, I'd be very grateful that my country is so well established (and Westernised!) compared to the rest of Africa. It could be so much worse, I think South Africa has a lot of challenges ahead, but currently it's doing quite well, and is full of opportunity. No one here realizes that they could be living in Malawi or Mozambique, making life a lot harder.

It's a long story, but I resided most of my life in the Netherlands :)

Glad you already experienced some of the bureaucracy of SA, you know what you're up for... though generally it shouldn't take that long! It's frustrating, yes, and there is a lot of red tape, but if you know where to go and what to ask for, you can do certain things on your first try! Things are a bit slow, but just go with the flow, and all should go your way. Remember to always remain friendly... the clerk assisting you may not be friendly, but they probably don't earn much and work through long queues of frustrated people each day... wishing them a nice day might just make a difference.

Hahaha! You really must mind what you say and do here! Especially with the older generation! South African people are very outspoken, but somehow they can't take opinions too well and get easily offended... Religion also plays a big role here, and most Christian beliefs are still valued. Of course, there is also a big Muslim and Hindu community here.
Hope you haven't had much drama with your in-laws.
Don't worry though, a lot of people in SA hold very progressive beliefs! I'm sure you'll be more involved in that scene. Overall, SA is a modern country.

I also haven't been down to Cape Town and Stellenbosch yet, but just like you, I'm looking forward to it!

We're currently living in Benoni. We're about 15 - 20 minutes from the airport. Benoni is a relatively small town, and it's not the prettiest in certain areas, but you can still feel safe. I unfortunately cannot provide you with any advice on areas in Johannesburg and Pretoria (there is however a topic on nice Joburg neighbourhoods somewhere on this forum - and there are plenty of them!) but it's all a matter of being smart about your safety. Just don't advertise your assets. If you hire household help, make sure they're reputable and check their references. We personally don't hire a "maid" as they call them. Most break-ins and robberies happen because the maid or gardener supplied the inside information. Of course, if you are negligent about your security and safety, you may be targeted. But please don't be paranoid. Also, making friends with your neighbours can help you out when you're in a pinch.
Just ask a real estate agent what good areas they can recommend. Drive through them and look around. If you feel safe, then you should be safe. Big, nice, well-kept houses indicate a nice area.

Also, to give you an idea, I would choose living in South Africa any time over living in the Netherlands. Life is so much simpler and carefree here. The judgement of society is not weighing you down. You can live life the way you want to. I hope you can find it more pleasant than living in the Middle East in some ways.

Thank you, I hope we can indeed keep in touch! :)

Hi there

I just moved to JB in January. So I have a little bit of experience. :)
Agee with what has been said do far by the lovely Dutch expat. To add areas to live. I think it depends what you want. Gated community or own home. Gated communities are certainly 'safer' but we rented a stand alone home in Craighall park. Close to sandton. In terms of living it does depend where your husband will be working and whether you have kids. Everyone circles around work and school as traffic is pretty bad so you want to be close to work and school. The area around crsighall park which is Parkhurst, Parkview parktown North snd dunkeld are quite safe but robberies do happen more often than I thought. I learnt this from being a member of certain suburb Facebook pages. You learn a lot by following them and they are also a great source for into re anything really. Lots of recommendation for nannies, housekeeping etc. really good.
As said you need a car probably two. Healthcare try to get that included in your husband's package it probably is. It is expensive ours costs 8000 rand a month for 2 adults one child.
Food we spend about 6000 rand. Rent is 43000rand including housekeeper and security. Probably not cheap but it is a nice house :)
Petrol same as home ( Australia that is ). Cars are not chesp but you buy them second hand. and if you need help with the all so elusive traffic register number let me know. I stumbled across a guy who does it all for you. Oh my God this is the best ever. I got my husband's withoug him even attending in 10 min! You pay him but this was 300 rand spent in the best way ever and I did had to facilitate some money for my husband not being there too but It was just so much easier.
There is a lot of room to be really paranoid or to just simply embrace the country and make the best out of it and be careful and considerate with what you do. There are certain things you just don't do and common sense prevails. It surely gotta be better than the Middle East :). Too hot for once.
Hope this helps.

Forgot to add. If you sign up for private banking setting up an account was a breeze. He came to my husband's work and then to our house for me to sign. A week later account was set up and cards delivered. Again you pay for this service but I think it is well worth it. 325 rand standard bank. All the banks have little quirks on its own. E.g standard has Ucount which is a reward program. You get certain amount of money back each month.  Linked to shopping etc. South africans seem to love their reward programs because they are everywhere. Same with our insurance. Discovery. 50% of gym fees and vitality points for shopping etc. it is s science on its own. As I am not working I have time to study them all and rest assured I have lots of reward progrsms going. FNB bank gives you access to airport lounges. May be worth looking into so that you get the best for your money.