Retiree for Chiang Mai?

I have just joined up..Jane, keep me in the loop...

Good one, Chris. will do!
Cheers, Jane

Janehunt wrote:

Hi,
I live on the Gold Coast and am a retiree in Australia, thinking seriously of coming to Chiang Mai to retire so I would love to hear from anyone who has done the big shift!
I will be making a trip there just after Christmas, and it would be great to meet up. I've lived in China and done trips to Vietnam that were interesting, but I've heard that Chiang Mai is a nice place to settle down?
I'm  way over travelling on my own, so it would be nice to meet someone like minded!
All comments appreciated...
Cheers, Jane

Hi and welcome to the forum
There is an expat rotary club in Chiang Mai. Google it for information.
CM can get a bit smoky during the burn off season, much more so than here on Gold Coast.

I live between Laos and Gold Coast. I have spent time in CM and do like the place. Chiang Rai is another spot worth checking out too. 

You need to go over for say a month and have a good look around before committing. Guesthouses will give deals for long term stays. Need to check out visas as well.   

You perhaps should also find out about pension payments for expats living overseas. Second hand info I get is that the Oz Govt is looking to stop payments if you are out of the country for a given length of time.

Try this website for cost of living www.numbeo.com

Good luck.

Hi Stumpy,
Much appreciate your info, many thanks.
I've been doing research into the pension, there's no point in going if you can't get that! Could be a bit sticky...
Would really like to make a friend who lives there before going over in Dec, I've been travelling for years on my own and being in a country with friends (who speak English ) would be a bonus!
I'll certainly look into Chiang Rai as well and the website you've suggested.
Once again, many thanks,
Cheers, Jane

@Jane

You're welcome.

I will eventually retire to Laos as my wife and children are there, but looks like a no pension deal for me !!

Yes Jane...I agree. Could be a bit sticky....I am now considering Outer Space....for as the Monty Python boys sang: “There's gotta be intelligence in outer space, cause there's bugger all here on Earth.”

I can be reached on email [email protected]

Unless I hear of something to good to be true...I may remain here in Aus....
regards

hi Jane welcome to the forum!   I have only just joined myself.  I have been in Thailand for a about 4 and a half years now,  We , my Thai wife and I, have just relocated to CM with her work.    CM is the second biggest city in Thailand and there is pretty much everything available here,  Great food, shopping, clubs, pubs,ciinamas, sporting activities and vArious expat clubs,  For example tennis clubs, gold clubs bridge clubs cooking clubs Computer clubs bycicling clubs sewing clubs craft clubs.   There are also lots of free courses available around the place like a 6 hour cooking course on macaroons, or  Thai massage and of course Thai language short courses.  currently I am funded by my Super as I retired early at 55, so I do know much about the Pension,  Oh I come from Brisbane.    It would be pretty dam unfair if the Oz government decided NOT to pay a pension just because you decide to live outside of the country after you may have spend years paying tax and Medicare!  still nowadays nothing surprises me with politicians!   I guess Iam lucky in that I saw the writing on the wall as far as governments " handouts" were concerned and took steps to ensure I was as self sufficient as I could be!

I would be glad to help out with info and meet up and show you around whilst you get settled and make your own friends that share your interests,  Which is a good lead into .... What are your interests?

look forward to hearing from you,  and maybe the other guy who mentioned the pension being cut off!
Cheers

Hi Chris,
Thanks for the input! I'll email you.
Cheers, Jane

Hello Oztaffy,
Many thanks for your really helpful reply!
.Nothing seems to be straightforward these days judging by all the information on the forum and I wonder if I could contact you and your wife by email?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers, Jane
[email protected]

Hi Stumpy,
Just curious, what is it like living in Laos?
Cheers, Jane

Good luck Jane and stay in touch if you like...
My suggestion is to stay for at least a number of months and not in a guesthouse.
I've found that the guesthouse experience is one thing and it's ok but it's not a 'living' experience.
To get the feel of 'living' someplace you recall have to settle into a different routine... I suggest an apartment.
Thais often call rooms apartments so it can be a tad difficult. Not impossible though...getting it through that I want a separate bedroom and a kitchen and a lounge space is sometimes a bit hard....but I persist.
Re: the pension. I have not definite hard facts. But some info....you have to maintain residency in Australia. You have to be deemed an Australian resident. That may mean receipts...rent...bills  etc...
I believe they are suggesting that you must maintain 26 weeks there in OZ....
I believe this is only a suggestion and may be subject to the wrangling of the Senate...
I don't believe passively accepting these outrageous attempts to change the rules of the game after people have used those rules in their retirement planning for many years....so I'll be agitating and complaining politically...
Unless older people stand up for their rights....etc etc......
I visited quite a few times before I got the feel of the place.
There are many factors to consider.
Taking a tuk tuk might be ok for a few weeks holiday ...but is it ok for long term (for me no....the novelty quickly wore off...) Transport can be an issue in CM....
If you just wander around the tourist area then it's not.....but this phase lasts only a few weeks....
Anyway...
There're just a few on my thoughts .... Best of luck....

Janehunt wrote:

Hi Stumpy,
Just curious, what is it like living in Laos?
Cheers, Jane

Lovely people. Difficult regarding visa as Lao Govt not geared up like Thai Govt. I get a single entry 30 day visa when I arrive and this can be renewed at immigration office for another month at a time.  Cost US$30 a month. No such thing as multiple entry visas for tourists. No residency visa.

Cost of living is rising too. Was cheaper than Thailand but reverse now. 

I have wife and 3 kids there. International schooling is cheap in comparison to private schools in Oz. 

Great food, excellent beer !!!

Thanks for that, Stumpy. They have a really good site for Laos info that was very interesting. Well, a bit more info I can put away....
Ah, might be stuck here for a while amongst the surf, sand, beer,pokies,fishing, swimming and infernal heat......?! 
Cheers.

Thanks for your reply, Lanem, much appreciated. 
Perhaps a lot about moving to another country comes down to getting the Oz pension readily,It's not looking good unless you have  a fair bit of capital? I would really like to know if there is anyone out there who is solely receiving the Oz pension to live on and not their Super or other means?

If I come for a short stay,with the accommodation, I've been travelling around using www.airbnb.com where locals rent out a room and most provide bed and breakfast.There seems to be a lot in Chiang Mai, (you get to stay with a local person at a really good price, they operate world wide which is handy too.)
It's been great having this site to post on, I'm getting such a lot of info!

Thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts, Lanem.
Cheers, Jane

Janehunt wrote:

Thanks for that, Stumpy. They have a really good site for Laos info that was very interesting. Well, a bit more info I can put away....
Ah, might be stuck here for a while amongst the surf, sand, beer,pokies,fishing, swimming and infernal heat......?! 
Cheers.

Getting warmer here on GC now. But in Laos it is the humidity that knocks you around. Temps around 35C.

hi well we made the move here in Chaing Mai  from USA , and we like it very much depends on where you want to live here. we picked inner city close to every thing by walk, the weather is nice  not to hot or cold nice balance.taxi fair is cheap if  you want to go to other parts of the city. unless you want to drive ,and getting a permit to do so is a bit much.

i suggest you come for a month and see for your self, every ones tastes are a bit different. condos and houses are cheap.At least by us standards so is the cost of living. many expats from many country's live here;

we have a 139 sq meter condo furnished in a good area big screen tv ect western kitchen  nice deck for 618,0 usd per month.tops and mail 5 min walk other mail Maya is 10 min i lived in Phucket for 4 months and prices here are much lower

Hi Jane,
Yes, Chiang Mai is nice.  I have been retired and living here for just over 3 years now.  I plan to stay here one more year and then move to Vietnam.
I take it you have not been here yet?  Not sure what you would like to know before you come in Dec but if you have any specific questions, I would be glad to try to answer them.
Cheers.
Jim

"Grandfathering" is the word.  I do hope if these proposed regulations are effected in OZ, that Aussies who have lived outside the county already for more than six months, may continue to do so while collecting full pension.  Sounds like an EU type regulation.  Australia, stand up for your self, stay independent!

Stumpy, Don't forget to mention that your location is on the airport take off path.

Don´t know for Aussies !!

But in Denmark when a new law get approve, Like the one on 31-12-12 about reduce early / old pension if move outside of EU.
It is "only" for people that move outside after the law is approve, not for us all ready here.
Thanks for that.

It is in our constitution, Danish word "Grund lov", Maybe check the Aussies constitution ?

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

Hi Jane,
Yes, Chiang Mai is nice.  I have been retired and living here for just over 3 years now.  I plan to stay here one more year and then move to Vietnam.
I take it you have not been here yet?  Not sure what you would like to know before you come in Dec but if you have any specific questions, I would be glad to try to answer them.
Cheers.
Jim

hi jim just moved here om usa also my i ask why you want to go to vietnam?

Oh, there are many reasons.  I personally find Vietnam much more interesting, fascinating, and beautiful than Thailand and the Vietnamese friendlier and much more to my liking than the Thais in general.  I've been traveling to Vietnam since 2004 and each of the past two years I have spent several months traveling around there.  I initially moved to Chiang Mai because I knew it well (since 2002) and it's much easier to get long-stay visas in Thailand.  But Chiang Mai and the people here have changed a lot and after 3 years here, I'm ready to head to Vietnam.

garycampsey wrote:

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

Hi Jane,
Yes, Chiang Mai is nice.  I have been retired and living here for just over 3 years now.  I plan to stay here one more year and then move to Vietnam.
I take it you have not been here yet?  Not sure what you would like to know before you come in Dec but if you have any specific questions, I would be glad to try to answer them.
Cheers.
Jim

hi jim just moved here om usa also my i ask why you want to go to vietnam?

I forgot to use the quote function…you can see my reply to your inquiry in my separate message.

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

Oh, there are many reasons.  I personally find Vietnam much more interesting, fascinating, and beautiful than Thailand and the Vietnamese friendlier and much more to my liking than the Thais in general.  I've been traveling to Vietnam since 2004 and each of the past two years I have spent several months traveling around there.  I initially moved to Chiang Mai because I knew it well (since 2002) and it's much easier to get long-stay visas in Thailand.  But Chiang Mai and the people here have changed a lot and after 3 years here, I'm ready to head to Vietnam.

so what are some of the places one would go in Vietnam? how has Chiang  Mia changed? i would like to go myself some time just to see . i know that's asking a lot but it sounds interesting

garycampsey wrote:

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

Oh, there are many reasons.  I personally find Vietnam much more interesting, fascinating, and beautiful than Thailand and the Vietnamese friendlier and much more to my liking than the Thais in general.  I've been traveling to Vietnam since 2004 and each of the past two years I have spent several months traveling around there.  I initially moved to Chiang Mai because I knew it well (since 2002) and it's much easier to get long-stay visas in Thailand.  But Chiang Mai and the people here have changed a lot and after 3 years here, I'm ready to head to Vietnam.

so what are some of the places one would go in Vietnam? how has Chiang  Mia changed? i would like to go myself some time just to see . i know that's asking a lot but it sounds interesting

The list of places to go in Vietnam is very long.  I won't divulge my off-the-beaten track places that I love…I want them to say off-the-beaten track for as long as possible…you'll have to discover them the way I did. (-;
But my favorite on-the-beaten track places are Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, and Dalat.  Sapa is also a popular destination place in the North…but again I know much better less-touristy places in the North that I won't divulge.  Many people go to NhaTrang, Mui Ne, and Vung Tau along the coast but for me they are overrun with too many Russian and other tourists now.  Saigon is nice for a few days but not much longer.  I've only been into the Mekong Delta once and definitely need to spend more time there and also get to Phu Quoc.
As for Chiang Mai, you have to factor in that I first came in 2002 on holiday.  It was still the "old" Chiang Mai with less hustle and bustle.  It's hard to describe but "the feel" was just different than today.  After Thaksin (the Shinawatra family comes from CM) became PM, there was and continues to be a lot of development that is gradually changing the  character of the place IMO.  Added to that the large influx of Chinese tourists over the past 2-3 years (after the Chinese comedy movie "Lost in Thailand" was filmed here) and the place just doesn't seem like it did when I first encountered it.  As for the Thais, there are many wonderful and friendly people here…some of the nicest people I've met anywhere.  But there is a certain arrogance among some Thais living in CM and it is something noticed by other falang that I have talked to.  Some CM Thais think they are better than anyone…not only falang but other Thais.
I think for foreigners first coming to visit or live in Chiang Mai today, it may feel like nirvana in many ways and I can understand that.  If they stay here over time, maybe their opinion will change (like mine has).  But there are many who come here and are totally contented here….and I can understand that too.

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

garycampsey wrote:

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

Oh, there are many reasons.  I personally find Vietnam much more interesting, fascinating, and beautiful than Thailand and the Vietnamese friendlier and much more to my liking than the Thais in general.  I've been traveling to Vietnam since 2004 and each of the past two years I have spent several months traveling around there.  I initially moved to Chiang Mai because I knew it well (since 2002) and it's much easier to get long-stay visas in Thailand.  But Chiang Mai and the people here have changed a lot and after 3 years here, I'm ready to head to Vietnam.

so what are some of the places one would go in Vietnam? how has Chiang  Mia changed? i would like to go myself some time just to see . i know that's asking a lot but it sounds interesting

The list of places to go in Vietnam is very long.  I won't divulge my off-the-beaten track places that I love…I want them to say off-the-beaten track for as long as possible…you'll have to discover them the way I did. (-;
But my favorite on-the-beaten track places are Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, and Dalat.  Sapa is also a popular destination place in the North…but again I know much better less-touristy places in the North that I won't divulge.  Many people go to NhaTrang, Mui Ne, and Vung Tau along the coast but for me they are overrun with too many Russian and other tourists now.  Saigon is nice for a few days but not much longer.  I've only been into the Mekong Delta once and definitely need to spend more time there and also get to Phu Quoc.
As for Chiang Mai, you have to factor in that I first came in 2002 on holiday.  It was still the "old" Chiang Mai with less hustle and bustle.  It's hard to describe but "the feel" was just different than today.  After Thaksin (the Shinawatra family comes from CM) became PM, there was and continues to be a lot of development that is gradually changing the  character of the place IMO.  Added to that the large influx of Chinese tourists over the past 2-3 years (after the Chinese comedy movie "Lost in Thailand" was filmed here) and the place just doesn't seem like it did when I first encountered it.  As for the Thais, there are many wonderful and friendly people here…some of the nicest people I've met anywhere.  But there is a certain arrogance among some Thais living in CM and it is something noticed by other falang that I have talked to.  Some CM Thais think they are better than anyone…not only falang but other Thais.
I think for foreigners first coming to visit or live in Chiang Mai today, it may feel like nirvana in many ways and I can understand that.  If they stay here over time, maybe their opinion will change (like mine has).  But there are many who come here and are totally contented here….and I can understand that too.

well thank you Jim for your insight and i will fallow up on your suggestions about Vietnam.

garycampsey wrote:

ChiangMaiJim wrote:

garycampsey wrote:

so what are some of the places one would go in Vietnam? how has Chiang  Mia changed? i would like to go myself some time just to see . i know that's asking a lot but it sounds interesting

The list of places to go in Vietnam is very long.  I won't divulge my off-the-beaten track places that I love…I want them to say off-the-beaten track for as long as possible…you'll have to discover them the way I did. (-;
But my favorite on-the-beaten track places are Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, and Dalat.  Sapa is also a popular destination place in the North…but again I know much better less-touristy places in the North that I won't divulge.  Many people go to NhaTrang, Mui Ne, and Vung Tau along the coast but for me they are overrun with too many Russian and other tourists now.  Saigon is nice for a few days but not much longer.  I've only been into the Mekong Delta once and definitely need to spend more time there and also get to Phu Quoc.
As for Chiang Mai, you have to factor in that I first came in 2002 on holiday.  It was still the "old" Chiang Mai with less hustle and bustle.  It's hard to describe but "the feel" was just different than today.  After Thaksin (the Shinawatra family comes from CM) became PM, there was and continues to be a lot of development that is gradually changing the  character of the place IMO.  Added to that the large influx of Chinese tourists over the past 2-3 years (after the Chinese comedy movie "Lost in Thailand" was filmed here) and the place just doesn't seem like it did when I first encountered it.  As for the Thais, there are many wonderful and friendly people here…some of the nicest people I've met anywhere.  But there is a certain arrogance among some Thais living in CM and it is something noticed by other falang that I have talked to.  Some CM Thais think they are better than anyone…not only falang but other Thais.
I think for foreigners first coming to visit or live in Chiang Mai today, it may feel like nirvana in many ways and I can understand that.  If they stay here over time, maybe their opinion will change (like mine has).  But there are many who come here and are totally contented here….and I can understand that too.

well thank you Jim for your insight and i will fallow up on your suggestions about Vietnam.

I forgot to mention one thing.  My suggestion for Vietnam is to get on a local bus in Hanoi or some other city and just head out to somewhere.  You will be amazed what you will discover along the way.  I did a 3+ week long, 11 buses trip like this in the North earlier this year and it was the most incredible trip I have ever done!  Be prepared for little English being spoken (Google Translator helped a lot) but you will see some beautiful countryside and small towns and meet some of the nicest people anywhere!  The other option would be to rent motorcycles or motorbikes and drive yourself.  I rented a motorbike for 5 days in the far North and had the time of my life!!

Snap ,,,that' makes two of us ,,,,,would be interested to hear of your feedback about retiring in chaing mai
Dave

Hi Jane, Regarding your plan to retire in Chiang Mai I have been retired here for three years now and love it. Having said that I have been traveling and working in Thailand for Thirty years and married to a wonderful Thai lady for the last Twenty Four years. So I have a degree of experience and slightly better understanding of the culture than the average tourist.

I think you should define what you are looking for in retirement as much as possible. Sure the costs overall are about 60 percent lower than Australia so your pension will go further but you will have to have either 800,000 Baht in a local bank or the equivalent certified income each year to qualify for a retirement visa. Also you will not be able to own land but you can own a strata title in a condominium. You can also take out a 30 year lease on  some land and build your own house or lease the whole property.  Renting is reasonable depending on what you are looking for.

As an Australian living here I enjoy the local food and there are now many supermarkets which supply Australian foods (Vegemite), cheese, butter, yogurt, lamb and wine. These are more expensive than the local very fresh produce but they are considered a luxury. The food here is excellent all up with very fresh produce available in many markets and shops as well. You hardly need to cook as the markets supply excellent Thai foods at very cheap rates. It seems cheaper to eat out.

My advice is to get to know the culture and lifestyle here well before you make any big moves. I suggest you come here for at least three substantial trips before you make any decisions. An understanding of the language and culture is extremely helpful.
Thai people in Chiang Mai are proud, quite friendly and welcoming but it will be a culture shock when you arrive here. We planned our move for ten years but there were still many things we both had to get accustomed to, even for my wife, as she is from a different province.

I  enjoy the climate but around April the valley is full of smoke from burning crops in Burma and China and it gets very hot and uncomfortable at that time. The rest of the time its still hot but that suits me and my 67 year old bones.
It really depends on your attitude - mine is that I am here to enjoy this amazing country and culture not to teach or change it., If there is something I don't agree with then I have to either get used to it or I can leave that's my attitude. So far the benefits for me have out weighted the few grumbles I have by a large factor. I think we have made a very pleasant lifestyle here and so far this is where I plan to stay.

If you have any more questions I'll try to answer them as best I can.

Best wishes
Soundspeed

Also try out Chiang Rai. Much better place than Chiang Mai which is only a mini Bangkok.
Lots of aussies here. try out chiangraities.com a great website with lots of local info.

I moved to Chiang mai last year after nine years in Bangkok. Each have their own pluses and minuses but I do miss the ease of getting around Bangkok.

I guess you could say I'm retired (I haven't worked in years) so I do have time to chat and run around scouting out the area. I often just get in the car and go ... wherever.

Hello, we went to Chiang mai for the first time(also in Thailand) last  October fell in love with it so much we bought a house after only 3 days there, for our upcoming early retirement ..  Our house is almost complete so when we go in March for a vacation, we can stay there... Making a snap decision is not for everyone , but after  a lot of research we just know this is the place for us, cant wait to say good by to Las Vegas !! lol

Hi soundspeed,
Many thanks for your posting and It's great that you are happy there!
My research has paid off really, nothing like this computer to get honest feedback.
Yes, I have a definate goal in mind for my twilight years, I've lived in China and travelled a lot in Asia over the years so the culture is not shell shock to me, in fact I would like to write a book on my experiences but you can see it all on the telly now anyway. ( One  program here at the moment called Bangkok Embassy tells it all!)
What I really wanted to know is if the average Aussie retiree is on an Oz pension and not living off their super or other form of income because the rules are changing here ALL the time. I've always been happy to assimilate to a country's culture and nothing like a challenge I say!
Do you have any answers at all?
Again, thanks for posting ,
Cheers.

Hi Jane, Re your question about living expenses. I suppose that I'm not exactly the average Australian retiree as we are fortunate to have a substantial self managed super fund in Aust. We also own a house in Melbourne which we have currently rented out and we find the rental income almost covers our living expenses here. We can live moderately but comfortably.
Not sure about collecting an Aust pension from here at all. Perhaps the Tax office website would help there?  www.ATO.Gov.au   or centrelink?

We were able to buy a very nice new  house here in my wife's name at about 1/3 to 1/4 of the price payable in Aust.  CM is a convenient base for our travels. Apart from liking to visit  and work in Chiang Mai for years my prerequisites for living in Thailand were that I had to be close to an International Airport and also the climate had to be suitable for tomatoes. Not that I'm passionate about tomatoes its just the climate range that I like. I actually miss CM when I go away and it is always a pleasure when I cross the mountains back to my home.
It is convenient to have a reasonably sized city nearby but we seldom need to go right into the touristy areas unless we have guests ( we seem to have many long lost relatives come to call ) . We have 4 major shopping precincts within 5 klms and a very good market for local things. We are only about 15 mins from the Airport.
Some of the hospitals here are world class with Chiang Mai Ram and now the brand new Bangkok Hospital open. This is a consideration in your future years as well. These are private hospitals and so you would need to have some kind of health insurance  scheme.

It depends, as I wrote previously, on what you are seeking. I personally rate places as to how many days I can stay there before needing to get out - Bangkok rates a 3. The Gold Coast in Aust. came in at 10, Chiang Mai is about 300 but that's only my personal position. This is why you need to spend some non tourist time here. I would suggest renting a house or condo for 3 -6 months and see how you handle it first.

Regards

Soundspeed

Many thanks for all your info, it's been most helpful!
All the best,
Jane

Chiang Mai OK but polluted - you don't have to be downtown anyway. Lots of temples (as usual).

Depending on whether you need to be in a city or not, ChiangRai OK,

and the eastern part of Thailand (Sisaket) absolutely beautiful. I am considering settling there.

Gerard

dear jane. I also intend to retire in Chiang Mai and live off Oz pension. I had no idea that there may be a problem receiving it overseas! Did you end up getting any confirmation? As far as I know, you can get the pension indefinately so long as you have lived in Australia for 25 years straight. Google Changes in Pension payments.

THuzz wrote:

dear jane. I also intend to retire in Chiang Mai and live off Oz pension. I had no idea that there may be a problem receiving it overseas! Did you end up getting any confirmation? As far as I know, you can get the pension indefinately so long as you have lived in Australia for 25 years straight. Google Changes in Pension payments.

Regarding overseas pension payments, the last Labor Govt was looking to eventually cut all overseas pension payments by 2020 so you would have to reside in Oz to get the pension.

From what little I know, and I may be wrong, you can get it paid overseas but it looks like you have to return after 23 weeks to keep up the full payment amount. It seems that if you choose to stay away longer then the amount drops.

I have been looking into it myself as I will retire to Laos soon. I think the best plan of attack is to make and appointment with Centrelink and have a chat with them about it.