What to expect as a Black American in the Andes?

@Jean-Robert145156 …🤗🌺🇪🇨 Welcome to Ecuador!

Cotacachi and the province of Imbabura has a well deserved reputation as a very welcoming (& hopfully everyone feels… inclusive) multicultural / international community. Imbabura province in particular includes, to your question, a diverse population of indigenous Afro-ecuadorian, Caribbean, African-American, and continental African members of the community. Local stats infer about 5% of the immigrant population are African, American. In Cotacachi you’re likely to meet people from all over, local indigenous, and mestizo, and fellow immigrants from all over the world.

The positive tone here is definitely set by the majority Kichwa indigenous population and the values they encourage in the community: ‘familia’, ‘respeto’, & ‘diversidad’ . I can’t speak to everyone’s personal experience coming here, much less that of a black American (especially as a white Canadian, still in shock at the joyous lack of snow, and the fact that fruit grows on trees here?!!! 😱🤪), but most immigrants to Ecuador (‘expats’ infers holding onto and imposing foreign traditions and expectations) are here to start over, open up to meeting new people, encouraging eachother and the locals they meet to succeed and find a happiness they may not have found in their home countries, experiencing new cultures, traditions, FOOD!

I found my happy place in Cotacachi, Imbabura… it has perpetual springtime temperatures, ranging from a cool 10° C (50° F) at night, to an average 21 to 24° (70 to 75° F) during the day… I often joke that the weatherman always says it’s 21° …whether it’s cold or hot, it just depends on whether the wind is blowing up the valley and the sun is out (warm), or the wind is blowing off of Volcan Cotacachi or Imbabura and it’s cloudy (chilly), either way, It’s always 21°.

But Cotacachi is a very friendly, clean, walkable, safe (even at night), liveable smaller town/city, with a great restaurant and cafe scene, local craftsman and great shopping, tiendas, markets, fresh produce, coffee, chocolate, wine… music and cultural events, indigenous experiences and influences, social activism and charity, nearby hiking and nature exploration and adventure opportunities… And just big enough to find things to do, constantly meet new people in a very welcoming multicultural / international community, easy to get to know people that you see on a regular basis, but without being so small that everybody knows ALL of your business. Ideal for me.

Thank you for sharing your positive experience of Cotacachi and the province of Imbabura in Ecuador. Someone elsewhere described that place as the Latin Mayberry. It's great to hear that the community values are "familia," "respeto," and "diversidad" and is welcoming to people from all over the world. Cultures create societies and my Christian values are harmonious with the 3 values of that micro-culture there. Everything you described check all my boxes from the fruits culture, tree and nature. What type of social activism goes on there? Also, even though the majority population is Kichwa, Espanol is still the dominant language in Cotachaci, right? I would have to learn it but Im sure its easier than Kichwa. Oh, I just remembered. So would you say law and order (Justice System) is independent from mob violence or street justice and is reliable? The reason I ask is because during my research I ve come across a mockery of justice near Macas concerning the Stephenson brothers being framed for double murder and railroaded by  an Indigenous family (the Tzamrendas) and the legal system there. Thanks a lot!Not sure if you came across it but here's one of many articles:https://blavity.com/blavity-original/two-black-american-brothers-who-moved-to-ecuador-say-theyre-being-wrongfully-imprisoned-for-murder?category1=news&item=1.

@Jean-Robert145156

Hi Jean, I'm on the coast.  I've never been to Cotacachi but it sounds like a cool place to visit.

@silverbuilder1957 Thanks for getting back to me. How long have you been out there now? Would you say they have an unbiased justice system from what you've seen concerning expats?

@Jean-Robert145156

I am an American who moved to a small town in Ecuador 6 months ago where there are a few black Americans all of whom I've gotten to know.  At least in this town racism seems to be a non issue. They are all happy here.  I have an American friend in Cotocatchi named Mark Townsend who would welcome you all and would be able to give you a more precise account of that town. He's in Facebook and he's a Baha'i. He'd be a good resource.

Matthew Levine

@Jean-Robert145156 …The mestizo (spanish / indigenous mixed) speak spanish, as do a majority of the indigenous & Kichwa (the mestizo will identify themselves as “indigenous”).

Do make the effort to learn a little Kichwa as well, start with:

Alli punja - Good morning

Alli chijhi - Good afternoon

Alli tuta - Good night

And after that the rest is gravy… learning more about the beautiful indiginous cultures will be your reward: the Tsáchila, Chachi, Epera, Awa, Quichua, Shuar, Achuar, Shiwiar, Cofán, Siona, Secoya, Zápara, Andoa y Waorani, and Afro-Ecuadorians…

Ecuadoreans do generally trust their national police, and their military, which is very rare indeed in Latin America. In fact, the military is a strong proponent for maintaining democracy in Ecuador. Corruption of course is a problem. and a lack of trust in politicians and municipal / transit police remain for good reason; Poverty and temptation push people outside the line of acceptable behaviour everywhere.

Part of that is changing social culture to move away from the traditional South American “protest culture”, which responded with blind anger to every real, or perceived, injustice or socioeconomic challenge in the country. Citizens in Ecuador have begun to realize that constant protest (shutting down business, roads, industry) or “paros” do more harm than good;  Families already living in poverty, are forced to close shop in alliance with the protesters, losing incomes, they cannot afford to be without. Education in how economics, democratic politics, and positive social movements can benefit them is sorely needed, and slow to come. However, to say that Ecuadoreans (and allied Expats) don’t support any more actions like those that saw excessive violence in 2019, and hurt the post Covid recovery in 2022, is an understatement… the normally reserved local Kichwa will even go so far as to say the paro was “controversial”.

The Afro-Ecuadorian social action group went so far as to fire their leader, who was attempting more extremist marxism / anti-market capitalism goals that the people have begun to realize would only hurt food security, incomes, and their families. There is a movement underway to modernize and stabilize the country, improving the trust in and respectability of the justice system, accepting and implementing ICC jurisdiction. (See link below to CIA World Factbook). The legal system does remain split between “Civil law, based on the chilean civil code, and traditional law in indigenous communities.” :

https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/ … s/ecuador/

Respect for the independence of the indigenous traditional law makes overcoming injustices like the case you describe more “challenging” (I hate putting it that way, but I don’t want to get into a discussion condemning the indigenous traditions with my limited knowledge). However I will say the justice courts here do have a strong regard for the opinions of, and cooperation with, the American justice system, and the local relationship with the American embassies. This case will become complicated and drawn out because of this, but their best recourse is to demand help from the US Embassy, and the American justice system is famously adamant in protecting their citizens abroad.

The biggest challenges in the Ecuadorian justice system are currently being repaired: Ecuador has only recently revised the laws to allow police officers to discharge their weapons in self-defense against an attacker or to protect the public. An officer could go to prison for inadvertently or even justifiably killing a suspect if the courts looked unkindly on the event. The law until now was intended to prevent Ecuador from turning into a police state, as many neighbouring countries have sadly experienced. The unintended consequences of the previous laws have been to leave the police officer feeling helpless to act of course. Recent changes will take time to sort out and balance with discretionary protection of lawful protesters, respect for “indigenous justice” & limited self-governance etc. but the situation will improve.

@agnuday Thank you for reply and info.

@Jean-Robert145156 … I am sorry, you did ask about local social activism; And as a writer and researcher, you can expect a good long read in reply lol …

There is generally a very heartening collaboration between the immigrant population, the wealthy Latino and indigenous / Kichwa contingent out of Quito (many of whom own businesses in Cotacachi and along with immigrants, are benefactors to local cultural programs), and the local entrepreneurial indigenous and Kichwa communities. Unlike in Loja or Vilcabamba, I’m happy to say the “gringo” contribution and interaction in Cotacachi is much more… hmmm… egalitarian in tone; Seeking to support local efforts, goals, and objectives, rather than imposing so-called “first world charity drives”.

All of these members of the community are involved in starting businesses and beneficial services (health and fitness centers, bakeries and restaurants, dairy products and health food businesses, many of which train and educate locals, and some of which contribute much of their profit to charity). The community as a multicultural whole comes together (with some influence from a cultural exchange relationship between local Kichwa shamans and shamans in Canadian indigenous tribes) to: support local athletes in professional training and competitions, Special Olympics events and funding drives, provide elderly Kichwa with daily lunches, medical treatment and care, and promote cultural traditions, and create a variety of educational programs for their youth.

Petitions are supported across the spectrum to move municipal and provincial governments to provide funding for improving infrastructure and utilities, clean water initiatives, supporting the local Amici Cannis with funding for free spaying and neutering of the local street dog population, etc. There are a number of volunteer organizations that include and involve everyone in the community to create events for: children (hallowe’en, music classes, dance classes, nature, park trips, experience with local craftsmen in pottery, art, etc.); and for disadvantaged families (free barbecues, social events, medical-care day camps, etc.).

Everyone follows their appetites to contribute to what the locals call “solidarity chicken” fundraisers; Put on by individual families for assistance obtaining specialized medical care (not easily available from the national IESS healthcare system, after being severely overwhelmed by the pandemic) by offering home cooked chicken dinners with veggies for $20 a meal. But fundraisers are well supported in general to help those with medical needs, catching up on bills, making repairs to homes and vehicles and lives, after catastrophic events, like the recent landslides, earthquakes, etc. Public art galleries, museums, and cultural centres are also all funded by, contributed to, and supported by everyone in the community.

Foreign investors who call themselves “Expats” (aka “Gringos” actually make up a very small percentage of the Financial investment and influence in Cotacachi (I think, fortunately so). Most business owners, landowners, and business investors are Ecuadorians, and in Cotacachi, most of those are Kichwa… many investing their wealth after returning from Canada and the US, and many even from Europe. (Germany, Italy, Spain, Portugal, etc..). Overall, nowhere is perfect, but the effort is there to build a positive community. As a Canadian coming from a very multicultural and “determined to be“ inclusive society, (but not perfect. I know), I couldn’t live here otherwise, so it’s very encouraging to me. It only took two weeks for me to feel like I was “home” in Cotacachi.

If you’re in Cotacachi, and feel inclined, feel free to say hello, and go for coffee! Ecuador is a beautiful country with many amazing places to live… I’m sure you’ll find the perfect place for you and your family in Ecuador, but hope you give Cotacachi a try and see what everyone is raving about!

@rkg695 Okay that explains it. You work as a  writer and researcher. After your second response I was thinking to myself ‘This fella writes quality level blogs as a response’. But I appreciate the responses and future expats will as well when this shows up in their google searches. The last infor I found about being black in Euardor was from 2013-2014. So your knowledge and others who response brings the info up to speed by a decade; at least in Cotacachi. Sounds like a wonderful place. I think charity drives has its places but in the long run ruins local economies. Hard for the local guy to compete with ‘free’. When I was researching crime stats throughout Eucador, an article stated expats in Vilcabamba tend to flash their wealth and live separate from the locals. And if they start businesses charge inflated prices. Thats why they experience more home breakins than Cuenca. At least that was their theory. Based on what your saying, their appears to be a synergy in Cotacachi. Immigrating rathering expating mindset. The community drives charity, enterprise and investments. It seems like power to the people by the people for the people is in full swing their.  Sounds like a nice community. Hope to scout the area this year. Thanks again for all the info!

@rkg695 Almost forgot, is their an evangelical community there among the locals or expats? Thanks!

Happy to help! Feel free to poke through forum posts links in my profile for interesting discussions with many of the very knowledgable and longer-term members of the ex-pats/Ecuador forum.

Definitely! There is a mixed variety of Evangelical, Baha’i, Jehovahs witness, traditional Incan descendant Kichwa / Aymaran shamanic traditional faiths, Buddhism, Hindu & Vaishnavism, Catholic & Protestant, moral Atheism, the full gamut.